Vienna
Saturday, 8/10/2011
Up early for breakfast which was magic. The full "English breakfast" including bacon and eggs, together with the usual continental style buffet, although there were no real pastries (Croissants etc). Lots of bread(s) however, so I tried a dark brown multi-grain pumpernickel. They served individual jugs of fresh-brewed coffee with a side jug of hot milk, Angus would have been pleased.
Yesterday I slept until mid-afternoon then risked the rain to go for a scout around my hotel. I am amazed I found it at all; I must really have been in the "zone" or just lucky because it is tucked away, literally down a back street almost under the raised local railway line. I understand the price now but I am astounded at the value!
I was directed to a "Burger king" as the closest food outlet but also found a couple of small local bar/cafe/restaurants. The hotel clerk had not suggested these although they were actually closer. I tried one and found it was Romany or Romanian and served relatively cheap meals with the option of a 10 Euro "Menu". These are simple multi-course options that can be either good value or simply a combination of the worst/low-cost items on the normal menu. They are almost always the local recipe soup or stew combined with a salad or grill with chip potatoes. I have sampled these from France, Belgium, and now Vienna (but the Romany version).
Mixed quality; the "bean" soup and bread was excellent but the grilled pork was forgettable. The "salad" was pickled vegetables (? a Viennese speciality) and I am really not sure what part of the pigs anatomy the meat came from. I suspect it was pigs cheek but all I am sure of is that it was not a "cut" I have ever been served before. I make the assumption that it was actually domestic pig but it may have been "wild boar" by the taste. Interesting but not to be repeated. The local beer I ordered turned out to be the American "Budweiser" so I was not overly impressed.
The Hotel clerk had actually been right in directing me towards the "Burger King" or the alternatives "uptown", but sometimes it pays to explore. Besides it was raining, cold, and I was wet, so the warm bar looked inviting. No gypsy music and I was directed to the tables in smaller non-smoking end of the bar so it was not social either. I had coffee back at the Hotel (after I found it again).
Today is Saturday so the Natural History Museum will not be open for researchers. I have my appointment with the Bauer drawings curator on Tuesday but will visit the Museum prior to that to establish my route and to see the rest of the exhibitions (and the Art Gallery opposite). Re-reading the emails I really think I will only get a half-day with the Bauer archive. It remains to be seen!
I will check out the public transport system today as the sun has broken through for a few seconds and the rain slowed/stopped.
[Later in afternoon] I checked with the Hotel clerk re the best way to get to the Museum and for the nearest "Laundromat". The Underground Line 4 gets me close to the Museum and there are two Line 4 stations nearby. The Laundromat was a bit harder and I came back when the Clerk was not as busy for details. She had printed out the Google map and I was off on a my "fifteen minute" walk.
Vienna is an old city with a maze of narrow streets combined with wide boulevards that have obviously been "driven" through the old town plan as part of urban renewal. The result is a tad confusing if you are walking from point A to B.
A bit circuitous and longer than is really practical but after a couple of "scenic detours" I got there. I explained to the lady proprietor that I was pleased to finally find her shop/Laundromat and a couple, also from Australia, piped-up that they had found the Laundromat the same way. Unlike most other cities I have visited, Vienna does not seem to have a "Laundromat" culture hence there are not many.
On the way back I found the UBahn station for Line 4 and worked out the ticket machine (there is a button marked "English" that makes life easier) and my best route to the Museum. If the weather is good I will give it a try tomorrow. I had lunch at the "Burger King" that had been recommended earlier, which luckily was close to the UBahn station. Same business plan as McDonalds, right down to exploiting low-paid teenagers. I had the healthiest thing on their menu; a grilled chicken wrap. I resisted the "fries" and the "super-size" options.
By this time it had clouded over and was getting cold so I beat a retreat back to my Hotel. I did check out the Pub/Restaurants on the other side of the main street, which look a bit less unsavoury, (in the daylight the "Romany restaurant" is off-putting). I might try for a meal up further tonight but I will wear my "thermals".
Photo. The "roundabout" through the window of my drive-through Burger King outlet. In the background you can see the multi-storey apartments that make up this part of Vienna.
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