Friday 7/10/2011
The transfer from Ghent to Brussels was easier than expected because I got up early and caught the 8.30 train to Brussels rather than wait for the 9.03 as planned. It was freezing cold on the train station platform so the warmth of the crowded commuter train decided me. It was an almost perfect connection as I always show-up a bit earlier than planned in case of "complications". Effectively I had another half hour at the Brussels Midi (or Zuid) terminal to ask silly questions and find the right platform. It turned out to be a special "international" set of platforms; i.e., "go along that main corridor and turn left at number 5"; which opened out onto just about a new station. The EuroStar leaves from there so it was useful info for a weeks time when I head for London (while I had the chance I checked with EuroStar staff re my online booking and reservation).
The super fast ICE train pulled into Cologne about 10 minutes late (a sufficient problem for the German train people to change the Locomotive). It did not matter to me as I had 8 hours to kill before my 2nd class sleeper train to Vienna. A word of very good advice "avoid the Cologne Railway Station"!!
The facilities were actually very good but the crime and begging was intense. They have a massive drug problem, so much so that the station McDonald's does not have toilets because of the "shooting gallery" problem. Apparently a couple of dead addicts had to be removed before the decision was made to "re-model" the restaurant. There is now only one central toilet block for the whole station, staffed and monitored 24/7. It costs 1 euro to use (double the charge for any other toilet I have used).
I saw armed police patrolling in threes; not a good sign. Every 30 min or so there would be a public security announcement regarding not leaving your luggage unattended. The beggars were persistent and everywhere. I saw "families" going through the rubbish bins and dumpsters looking for anything with a deposit or re-cycle value.
My original plan was to put my suitcase in a Station locker then go sight-seeing around town for a few hours. Two problems; one it was raining cats&dogs and two, a number of lockers had the doors ripped off. I decided to sit it out in the cafes where it was warm and dry at least. Many cups of coffee later (and a lecture from an ex-pat Scotsman for leaving my luggage at my table while getting my order). He and his wife were dead-serious about the dangers; not a place to take any risks what-so-ever. Totally paranoid by now, my train finally came up on the big-board and I headed to the platform indicated. I teenage beggar had beaten me to it and was already hassling the passengers as they waited the 20 minutes for the train to pull-in. I finally got to my 4 berth sleeper compartment and managed to get all my stuff up to the top bunk that I had booked. No headroom but the carriage conductor said there would be only three in the compartment so I put some of my stuff on the other upper bunk.
Silly mistake as just after I got to sleep I heard someone climbing up onto the other bunk. Late booking from an intermediate station and all my staff (trousers neatly laid out, watch within easy reach, e-book, etc), was piled up under his luggage in the upper luggage rack. I was only half-awake but got back the trousers and book, but he was simply annoyed and wanted to go to sleep.
Next morning I retrieved my watch and day-pack. The watch, a replacement for my Australian one that died on the MIDI canal, was no longer keeping time correctly. You learn as you go.
When we disembarked at Vienna it was really raining hard but my Hotel was only a short distance away from the Station although by a complex route. I checked with the information people re directions (not very helpful for non-train issues) and waited for a bit of a break in the weather. The rain slowed to a light drizzle, I donned my rain-proof jacket and started walking, clutching my Google-map printout. The rain hit again and the final turns on the map were really confusing; more by luck than good management I saw the Best Western Flags down a "side-street" and I was there. Soaking wet shoes and lower trousers, and with a really wet trolley-suitcase and pack but I had got to the Hotel in under 15 minutes.
I am writing this blog via the free WiFi at the Best Western hotel Reither in Vienna, in a super little room with its own safe. A shower and a sleep then I will worry about dinner, skipping lunch.
Note: I did manage a quick couple of photos outside the Train Station at Cologne.
Photo The Cologne Cathedral, showing yet more scaffolding and renovations using borrowed EU money. Even in Germany you have the same economic problem; i.e., sovereign debt, which is actually much larger than the US "sub-prime loans" problem although they will be blamed as the catalyst for whatever economic disaster is coming. This European debt based over-spending is just too wide-spread.
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