1/10/2011 Saturday in Europe.
Just leaving Toulouse Matabiau station on my way to Lille Europe, as the stop/change for Brussels. Very scary showing up at 4.30 am for a 5.20 train at a closed Toulouse "Gare" with a group of resident street people. We, the early morning travellers, milled around the lighted entrance while the street people circled the outside cadging cigarettes. A really silly place to be!
[My plan is to keep using my Orange Mobicarte Internet max until the last minute, hence trying to write a blog on a phone on a moving train. An interesting pastime. Once out of France I am without internet, unless either the hotel or University provide access.]
Last nght I had my worst meal in France, worse than the fried chicken leg on tinned peas served to us in one of the little "tourist-town" restaurants along the canal. I went to a French Chinese restaurant and was served a truly awful honey-pork and fried rice dish. You learn as you go.
Friday, 30 September 2011
Thursday, 29 September 2011
Toulouse, 30th September
Today is a spare day, in that I planned nothing specific. No real idea of the city but will explore a bit. The McPhersons left by train earlier. Yesterday I sent off my presentation title and abstract, for the second time. The problem with emails on the fly is that you do not get confirmation. (Yes as I suspected, when I double-checked later the abstract had not been sent by Microsoft. Sent off a title to TIM, and got a confirmation.)
Apart from playing with the Internet on my phone, I managed to find the square, the museum/gallery, and the local library. I needed the Library to print off my electronic tickets that I booked in Paris (on my last day with secure internet). The library had some public access computers and I asked the librarians if I could print my emails. I got the OK and " ran the maze " to print-out in French. All in all a successful morning.
I now have paper tickets for my Brussels to Cologne, Cologne to Vienna journey. I also printed off my return Vienna to Cologne, and Cologne to Brussels, and EuroStar Brussels to London journey. All I need to book now is accommodation in Vienna and in London.
When I get to Ghent I will need to check my Mastercard account and do the last of the bookings. I have gone through all the cash I got from Paris. My expenses shot-up from 130 euro per week to 470euro in 10 days while on the MIDI canal. Again it was actually much higher if you add in the costs of the pre-paid barge hire. Fun but not cheap!
Apart from playing with the Internet on my phone, I managed to find the square, the museum/gallery, and the local library. I needed the Library to print off my electronic tickets that I booked in Paris (on my last day with secure internet). The library had some public access computers and I asked the librarians if I could print my emails. I got the OK and " ran the maze " to print-out in French. All in all a successful morning.
I now have paper tickets for my Brussels to Cologne, Cologne to Vienna journey. I also printed off my return Vienna to Cologne, and Cologne to Brussels, and EuroStar Brussels to London journey. All I need to book now is accommodation in Vienna and in London.
When I get to Ghent I will need to check my Mastercard account and do the last of the bookings. I have gone through all the cash I got from Paris. My expenses shot-up from 130 euro per week to 470euro in 10 days while on the MIDI canal. Again it was actually much higher if you add in the costs of the pre-paid barge hire. Fun but not cheap!
28/29th September, Midi canal - Carcassone - Toulouse
South of France.
We have been busy, we moved through the remaining locks very quickly to get Carcassonne for a full day of sight-seeing on the 28th. The castle was at least a day to explore. Some more good food and a bit more wine than is good for me; and the adventure is done! Today, the 29th , we cleaned up the barge and handed it in (hopefully) to get our deposit back. Caught the train to Toulouse and was booked into our Hotel by 1.30 pm. All of us are a tad worn out.
I stay an extra day in Toulouse then do a big travel day to get to Ghent in Belgium. Geoff and Jill head off tomorrow for Italy. I noticed that my watch has stopped, a casualty of the canal; not just my falling in once but also the water/muck from the ropes at the locks. I went into town to have the battery changed (hope springs eternal) but the "winder" does not seem to work so the damage is more profound. After trying the new battery (unsuccessful) I ended up buying a cheap watch from the local Supermarket just to have a time-piece for catching trains. My schedule is tight so I do need to be on-time at a couple of critical transfers.
Photos are of the Castle as seen from the canal, the Canal Barge we had hired and lived on for 10 days, and finally of the Midi Canal at dusk.
We have been busy, we moved through the remaining locks very quickly to get Carcassonne for a full day of sight-seeing on the 28th. The castle was at least a day to explore. Some more good food and a bit more wine than is good for me; and the adventure is done! Today, the 29th , we cleaned up the barge and handed it in (hopefully) to get our deposit back. Caught the train to Toulouse and was booked into our Hotel by 1.30 pm. All of us are a tad worn out.
I stay an extra day in Toulouse then do a big travel day to get to Ghent in Belgium. Geoff and Jill head off tomorrow for Italy. I noticed that my watch has stopped, a casualty of the canal; not just my falling in once but also the water/muck from the ropes at the locks. I went into town to have the battery changed (hope springs eternal) but the "winder" does not seem to work so the damage is more profound. After trying the new battery (unsuccessful) I ended up buying a cheap watch from the local Supermarket just to have a time-piece for catching trains. My schedule is tight so I do need to be on-time at a couple of critical transfers.
Photos are of the Castle as seen from the canal, the Canal Barge we had hired and lived on for 10 days, and finally of the Midi Canal at dusk.
Tuesday, 27 September 2011
26/09/2011 Midi canal, Trebes
26/09/2011
MIDI canal
We travelled through three sets of locks to get to Trebes after a quick stop at a small village for supplies but was told (by the postmidtress) that everything was in Trebes. A long haul but she was right and we had dinner at a Trebes restaurant (rather than "do lunch" in a vineyard as was the plan). Very close to the end of journey and will be at last port tomorrow night.
Sunday, 25 September 2011
25/9/2011, a further along Midi canal. ng
Yesterday again had a number of firsts; the first time I fell into the canal for a start. We just cruised a bit then went for a bike ride into a nearby village. As it was Sunday not much was open but we did get a look at the architecture. Today we move towards Trebes but we have to have the barge back on the 28th (2 nights left on the canal). We have negotiated a few multiple lock systems so far and have at least another 4 to go. All fun.
Saturday, 24 September 2011
24/09/2011 Saturday Midi canal, Homps
MIDI canal
24/09/2011
We got through the tough bit to get to Holms ( three sets of locks), a base for the barge company . A necessary stop so we could get our fridge repaired. A long saga but no gas , no fridge, no repairs (it is Saturday) but we did get hose for water and towels. Went to Supermarket for a camp stove and ice. Only 4 days to go and we can get by.
Stopped for lunch at a nearby restaurant and had a super meal, maybe the best meal so far in France. (It all balances out in the end.) A lazy afternoon with maybe s cycle ride later!
[Later] It turned out to be a long walk along the canal followed by aparetifs on the back deck!
The photo are of a typical bridge and a serene stretch of canal lined with Plane trees
23/9/2011 Midi canal, 2nd winery for day.
Just past Pazara and bought half a carton of wine of the region. Stopped for lunch on the side of the canal , and had cheese and bread with a Rose. Off to a double lock then tie up near a small town and go to a restaurant for dinner. Leave the heavy duty travel until tomorrow!
Thursday, 22 September 2011
22/9/2011 day 4 Midi canal
MIDI Canal
22/9/2011 An easy day with no locks. We miss read the map Tomorrow we get to the multi lock systems. Today we visited a canal side restaurant, for a really well presented three course French province meal. The photo is of Camage marsh Ponies/horses.
Wednesday, 21 September 2011
21 September 2011, Midi Canal (on barge)
Midi Canal.
21/09/2011
Another day of firsts ; first 5 stage lock , first aquaduct taking the canal over the river on a bridge, first canal tunnel, and first dinner in a village restaurant. We went a fair distance to avoid having to stop in a stretch known for theft and tied up in a reasonably big village that had a couple of restaurants and a breadshop. I tried for a photo. Still have not worked it out on the smart phone.
Tomorrow we continue on but with 6 sets of locks, some of them multiple step. It will be interesting.
Sunday, 18 September 2011
Sunday 18/09/2011, Paris: Cite' Universitaire
Paris
18/09/2011
About to leave the Cite' Universitaire and Paris, with a somewhat heavy heart. I had a good but in many ways, a frustrating day. I needed to book my train tickets while I still had a secure Internet connection, so instead of a final sight-seeing around Paris I was locked into battle with the computer.
I did get a Sunday breakfast and a Sunday Lunch at the Maison Espanol, but after a quick tour around the Cite' grounds one last time it was back to the battle. I ended up using the German train booking site to get me from Belgium to Austria (Vienna) and then from Austria to London. All up only four long-distance jumps but each one had to be individually researched to get anywhere near a reasonable price; eg a "London spezial" that was half the price, if you worked out how to apply. I may have got caught ticking boxes I should not have again but I will argue that on the day. The total cost was significant, given it is risk-management in that the Vienna Natural History Museum has not got back to me with a firm appointment to view the Bauer drawings. Trust to luck is all I can do!
I chose to Internet download the train tickets then remembered that I did not have a printer. I will have get access to one and print these tickets off before I actually need them. That will be the Ghent Uni or maybe the hotel in Toulouse.
Geoff and Jill McPherson gave me a Skype call and an email. They were on their way to Adge at the time, so the grand plan is coming together. I have to get up extremely early to be on my way tomorrow. Just transiting to the SFNC station on the other side of Paris will be a challenge. I need a holiday from just organising my holiday!
Last post for a bit, unless I can use my Smart Phone!
18/09/2011
About to leave the Cite' Universitaire and Paris, with a somewhat heavy heart. I had a good but in many ways, a frustrating day. I needed to book my train tickets while I still had a secure Internet connection, so instead of a final sight-seeing around Paris I was locked into battle with the computer.
I did get a Sunday breakfast and a Sunday Lunch at the Maison Espanol, but after a quick tour around the Cite' grounds one last time it was back to the battle. I ended up using the German train booking site to get me from Belgium to Austria (Vienna) and then from Austria to London. All up only four long-distance jumps but each one had to be individually researched to get anywhere near a reasonable price; eg a "London spezial" that was half the price, if you worked out how to apply. I may have got caught ticking boxes I should not have again but I will argue that on the day. The total cost was significant, given it is risk-management in that the Vienna Natural History Museum has not got back to me with a firm appointment to view the Bauer drawings. Trust to luck is all I can do!
I chose to Internet download the train tickets then remembered that I did not have a printer. I will have get access to one and print these tickets off before I actually need them. That will be the Ghent Uni or maybe the hotel in Toulouse.
Geoff and Jill McPherson gave me a Skype call and an email. They were on their way to Adge at the time, so the grand plan is coming together. I have to get up extremely early to be on my way tomorrow. Just transiting to the SFNC station on the other side of Paris will be a challenge. I need a holiday from just organising my holiday!
Last post for a bit, unless I can use my Smart Phone!
Saturday, 17 September 2011
Saturday, 17/09/2011, Paris, Cite Universitaire/ Emmais used clothes.
Paris
17/09/2011
I checked my account last night and I have spent around A$130.00 per week for the five weeks that I have been in Paris (approx). That works out at around A$20.00 per day for food, local transport, phone and photocopy costs at the Central Library. Added to the pre-paid accommodation that is around A$80.00 per day for my stay, or about the cost of a motel room in Australia. Pretty good value for money!
I tried for another breakfast at the Maison Espanol and they were open on a Saturday! I even tried for a second cup of "flat white coffee" but I had learned from Angus McColl back home that you ordered a long espresso plus hot milk on the side. Here I was promptly directed to the brewed coffee in the jugs which also had a Thermos of hot milk sitting next to them! Second cup was free! I like this place.
I searched for the recommended department store on Google and it came across as very "up-market". But, while Google searching "Paris mens clothes" I got "Used clothing" as a category. These shops look like second-hand designer clothes but it was worth a look. I am off to the closest one today, however, it is still a fair distance from the University district, which also suggests it is not a budget establishment. On the way back I will call into Place d'Italie if necessary. This afternoon I plan on more laundry and booking travel.
Well my trip to the second-hand shop was remarkably easy, or I am learning the ropes. Bus 67 got me close to the Place Bastille and I used that as my landmark to get the Boulevard Beaumarchis where the Emmais shop was. The trip was a good sight-seeing venture, irrespective of the jeans. As it was, the used-clothing shop was just what I needed, I found a pair of grey denim work trousers with lots of pockets that were just a bit tight round the waist but fitted very well otherwise. Total cost was 7.50 euros and they will be perfect knock-about clothing for the barge! It only took me about 20 min in the shop and the sales-lady pointed me to the change "cabinets" without me even having to ask! I thought the rack where I got the trousers said 15.50 (still a good price) but what it actually said was "Maximum 15.50"! Prices were marked individually, depending mainly on the label. American Levi's get top dollar apparently. Mine do not even have a label so were relatively cheap.
After leaving the shop I headed back to the Place Bastille and from there to the Seine for a quiet stroll along the banks checking-out the booksellers stands. I took some photos of the Seine "residential" barges all lined up in a backwater near one of the bridges. I came across a Bus 67 stop going in the right direction and as it was lunch-time, jumped on the next bus back to Cite'.
Immediately I got back to my studio I took a good look at my "cheap jeans" and I am fairly sure they have not been worn. All the buttons were there and the button holes were new and stiff, there was no sign off wear or fraying, and the stitching was all intact? A really good deal, if just a bit tight.
Having a second par of trousers again meant that I could now wash my number one pair without running around in my cycle shorts until they were done. I proceeded to do that and threw in all my dirty shirts socks etc to make sure of a clean wardrobe for the Canal trip. The laundry is getting pretty cut-throat now the students are back; 5 washing machines and about 300 students equals a traffic-jam! A lot more clothing in piles on the floor because they were left in a dryer (or washer!!) for too long. Use it or lose it, literally. It means sitting on top of your wash until it is finished, like at a commercial Laundromat. I am not complaining because that is the only other alternative, but at higher prices.
Lunch and laundry was all done by 3.15pm so I set to work with the online travel booking. A bit of train travel research first using the "Seat 61" Blog.
17/09/2011
I checked my account last night and I have spent around A$130.00 per week for the five weeks that I have been in Paris (approx). That works out at around A$20.00 per day for food, local transport, phone and photocopy costs at the Central Library. Added to the pre-paid accommodation that is around A$80.00 per day for my stay, or about the cost of a motel room in Australia. Pretty good value for money!
I tried for another breakfast at the Maison Espanol and they were open on a Saturday! I even tried for a second cup of "flat white coffee" but I had learned from Angus McColl back home that you ordered a long espresso plus hot milk on the side. Here I was promptly directed to the brewed coffee in the jugs which also had a Thermos of hot milk sitting next to them! Second cup was free! I like this place.
I searched for the recommended department store on Google and it came across as very "up-market". But, while Google searching "Paris mens clothes" I got "Used clothing" as a category. These shops look like second-hand designer clothes but it was worth a look. I am off to the closest one today, however, it is still a fair distance from the University district, which also suggests it is not a budget establishment. On the way back I will call into Place d'Italie if necessary. This afternoon I plan on more laundry and booking travel.
Well my trip to the second-hand shop was remarkably easy, or I am learning the ropes. Bus 67 got me close to the Place Bastille and I used that as my landmark to get the Boulevard Beaumarchis where the Emmais shop was. The trip was a good sight-seeing venture, irrespective of the jeans. As it was, the used-clothing shop was just what I needed, I found a pair of grey denim work trousers with lots of pockets that were just a bit tight round the waist but fitted very well otherwise. Total cost was 7.50 euros and they will be perfect knock-about clothing for the barge! It only took me about 20 min in the shop and the sales-lady pointed me to the change "cabinets" without me even having to ask! I thought the rack where I got the trousers said 15.50 (still a good price) but what it actually said was "Maximum 15.50"! Prices were marked individually, depending mainly on the label. American Levi's get top dollar apparently. Mine do not even have a label so were relatively cheap.
After leaving the shop I headed back to the Place Bastille and from there to the Seine for a quiet stroll along the banks checking-out the booksellers stands. I took some photos of the Seine "residential" barges all lined up in a backwater near one of the bridges. I came across a Bus 67 stop going in the right direction and as it was lunch-time, jumped on the next bus back to Cite'.
Immediately I got back to my studio I took a good look at my "cheap jeans" and I am fairly sure they have not been worn. All the buttons were there and the button holes were new and stiff, there was no sign off wear or fraying, and the stitching was all intact? A really good deal, if just a bit tight.
Having a second par of trousers again meant that I could now wash my number one pair without running around in my cycle shorts until they were done. I proceeded to do that and threw in all my dirty shirts socks etc to make sure of a clean wardrobe for the Canal trip. The laundry is getting pretty cut-throat now the students are back; 5 washing machines and about 300 students equals a traffic-jam! A lot more clothing in piles on the floor because they were left in a dryer (or washer!!) for too long. Use it or lose it, literally. It means sitting on top of your wash until it is finished, like at a commercial Laundromat. I am not complaining because that is the only other alternative, but at higher prices.
Lunch and laundry was all done by 3.15pm so I set to work with the online travel booking. A bit of train travel research first using the "Seat 61" Blog.
Friday, 16 September 2011
Friday 16/09/2011, Paris
Paris
16/09/2011
Today was one of my "strange things happen" days. I decided on breakfast at the Maison Espanol, which was worth every centime of the 2.8 euro they charged me, for the coffee alone.
I then headed out to collect a debt for a friend. The short story is that they rented an apartment and sent a cheque for the whole rental as requested, but this supposedly did not arrive, so they paid in cash (Euros) again when they got to Paris. Then the bank informed them that the cheque had been cashed. They had paid twice!
16/09/2011
Today was one of my "strange things happen" days. I decided on breakfast at the Maison Espanol, which was worth every centime of the 2.8 euro they charged me, for the coffee alone.
I then headed out to collect a debt for a friend. The short story is that they rented an apartment and sent a cheque for the whole rental as requested, but this supposedly did not arrive, so they paid in cash (Euros) again when they got to Paris. Then the bank informed them that the cheque had been cashed. They had paid twice!
The landlord said it would cost too much to transfer the money back but they could pick-up the cash (Euros) in person from his office; they were out of the country by that time. I volunteered to do the collection and get the cash back to them somehow. I still have a month in Europe then two-weeks in the UK so the easiest way is for me to use the money rather than draw out ATM funds. I simply transfer the equivalent "exchange rate adjusted" amount in A$ to their Australian account.
The office was across the other side of Paris (and Paris is not a small city) but I used Google map and the local transport maps to work out a route that only required two buses (i.e., one change of lines but a bit of walking). The changes are always where you foul up because the exact location/position of the bus-stop usually requires local knowledge.
Ultimately I found the office and introduced myself. We double counted the money, he then me, and I put the euros (450 in 20 euro bill's, plus one 10) into my money belt and was off. All very business-like! I left the office carrying a reasonable amount of cash, so I was looking over my shoulder the whole way. I went nowhere near the Metro, which can be "hazardous" at the best of times.
The office was across the other side of Paris (and Paris is not a small city) but I used Google map and the local transport maps to work out a route that only required two buses (i.e., one change of lines but a bit of walking). The changes are always where you foul up because the exact location/position of the bus-stop usually requires local knowledge.
Ultimately I found the office and introduced myself. We double counted the money, he then me, and I put the euros (450 in 20 euro bill's, plus one 10) into my money belt and was off. All very business-like! I left the office carrying a reasonable amount of cash, so I was looking over my shoulder the whole way. I went nowhere near the Metro, which can be "hazardous" at the best of times.
It was actually fortuitous the way I made my "get-away". I retraced the zig-zag path down side-streets to the bus stop, made the lights so crossed to the opposite bus stop (going back), where my Number 43 bus was jammed behind a stopped car. I waved my Navigo card and the driver let me on, a rare event in itself! Last person to board, therefore no-one could possibly have followed me on foot. I jumped off just short of the Gare Saint-Lazare station and stepped straight onto an Number 21 bus to the Cite' Universitaire. Le Carre could not have scripted it better!
A sandwich for lunch (the morning was gone) and I did my laundry prior to the trip to Adge. Talked to the other floor residents and to the front-desk staff re "buying cheap jeans". I am off to the department store(?) at Place d'Italia tomorrow. Google map time again.
A sandwich for lunch (the morning was gone) and I did my laundry prior to the trip to Adge. Talked to the other floor residents and to the front-desk staff re "buying cheap jeans". I am off to the department store(?) at Place d'Italia tomorrow. Google map time again.
This afternoon I checked my emails and still no reply from Vienna. I am going to have to wing-it and just book my train tickets and accommodation in Vienna while I still have Internet access. Hopefully this will not be wasted. I will also book my trip back to London via EuroStar, 2nd class this time.
Thursday, 15 September 2011
Thursday 15/09/2011, Central Library, Natural History Museum, Paris
Paris (last day at the Central Library).
Thursday 15/09/2011
A tad sad to finish up at the Central Library, for this trip anyway. Good, competent people and a good experience for me, although the results of my research were mixed.
The day stated well with a quick breakfast in the studio then back down to the menswear shops to buy jeans. The cheap prices turned out to be a bit deceptive. The 15 euro sign actually said buy two pair and get the second one for 15 euro. At another smaller shop the sign on the table said 17.5 euro but that referred only to the t-shirts, the jeans on the same table were 50 euros. These are "Brand" jeans when all I need is a "Target" variety. Empty handed again!
Lunch was better! I nipped into the Maison Espanol Restaurant and no shell-fish, so I proceeded to order my lunch. Cafeteria style so you select and get served from the "cauldrons" of hot stew/whatever. I got served couscous plus flavouring! With some veges, a meatball, a sausage, and a small piece of chicken. I was careful that I only got the set menu (there was bread, a small salad, and a small desert included as well) but to my surprise the cost was 8.20 and not the 10 euro I was expecting. I assume that, as the student price is 7.50, my salad was a non-standard extra on top of the student price. I noticed later that no-one else had my salad. Either that or there was a deduction because I did not choose the "included" soft-drink! I count it as a win either way, even if the meal was not "haute cuisine".
[I went back later and checked prices; it was the student/resident price plus an extra (my salad). Also, it was a regional speciality meal of "couscous"]
You have to picture this "negotiation" against a background of high-intensity French and Spanish babble and a line of hungry impatient students. One of the reasons I play these games, apart from the fun of it, is to force myself to confront the problem of communication without the local language. A challenge.
On to the Central Library for one last session with the Lesueur manuscripts. I went back over the tropical fish manuscript (although I did not recognise it as such the first time through). I had already photocopied a number of the important images, because of the similarity to the Le Havre drawings. Again there was nothing to indicate any came from Terra Australes except that they look like Australian tropical species.
I finished up, collected my current digital photocopies and arranged for todays work to be emailled to me. I paid in advance from my NMHN Central library photocopy card. On the way out I made sure to collect my NMHN Central library security pass-card for future adventures. Maybe next year?
A bit early for a summary of the results but my feelings at the moment are:
1. I have seen first-hand the original paintings and drawings by Charles Alexandre Lesueur of the marine species he observed/recorded while on his travels to Australia (Terra Australis), the Americas, and France. This has been a privilege.
2. I did not see all of these images, particularly in the Le Havre archive, due to a number of problems.
3. I have not understood enough of the hand-written French text that accompanied the drawnings and paintings in the Paris archive to extract the full value from that historical record. This element is a challenge not just because of the archaic language used but because the long-hand script has to be deciphered first.
4. As noted previously it is obvious the manuscripts are organised into chapters around the taxonomy of the fish described. This has obscured to a large degree the chronological and geographic precedence in the collection. There is also an added layer of uncertainty due to hand-written pencil notes on most of the paintings that were most likely added at a later date.
5. I have been able to locate at least half of the paintings/images used on the plates in the Journal -Atlas of the 1801-04 voyage, in the Paris archives. These paintings must have pre-dated Lesueur's American and later European work. Therefore given the regrouping of images into taxonomic hierarchies it is likely that other paintings from Terra Australis are also mixed in with later work.
6. I have at least partially achieved my goal of understanding Lesueur's style and aesthetic response to the completely novel images that the marine creatures of the New World presented.
Thursday 15/09/2011
A tad sad to finish up at the Central Library, for this trip anyway. Good, competent people and a good experience for me, although the results of my research were mixed.
The day stated well with a quick breakfast in the studio then back down to the menswear shops to buy jeans. The cheap prices turned out to be a bit deceptive. The 15 euro sign actually said buy two pair and get the second one for 15 euro. At another smaller shop the sign on the table said 17.5 euro but that referred only to the t-shirts, the jeans on the same table were 50 euros. These are "Brand" jeans when all I need is a "Target" variety. Empty handed again!
Lunch was better! I nipped into the Maison Espanol Restaurant and no shell-fish, so I proceeded to order my lunch. Cafeteria style so you select and get served from the "cauldrons" of hot stew/whatever. I got served couscous plus flavouring! With some veges, a meatball, a sausage, and a small piece of chicken. I was careful that I only got the set menu (there was bread, a small salad, and a small desert included as well) but to my surprise the cost was 8.20 and not the 10 euro I was expecting. I assume that, as the student price is 7.50, my salad was a non-standard extra on top of the student price. I noticed later that no-one else had my salad. Either that or there was a deduction because I did not choose the "included" soft-drink! I count it as a win either way, even if the meal was not "haute cuisine".
[I went back later and checked prices; it was the student/resident price plus an extra (my salad). Also, it was a regional speciality meal of "couscous"]
You have to picture this "negotiation" against a background of high-intensity French and Spanish babble and a line of hungry impatient students. One of the reasons I play these games, apart from the fun of it, is to force myself to confront the problem of communication without the local language. A challenge.
On to the Central Library for one last session with the Lesueur manuscripts. I went back over the tropical fish manuscript (although I did not recognise it as such the first time through). I had already photocopied a number of the important images, because of the similarity to the Le Havre drawings. Again there was nothing to indicate any came from Terra Australes except that they look like Australian tropical species.
I finished up, collected my current digital photocopies and arranged for todays work to be emailled to me. I paid in advance from my NMHN Central library photocopy card. On the way out I made sure to collect my NMHN Central library security pass-card for future adventures. Maybe next year?
A bit early for a summary of the results but my feelings at the moment are:
1. I have seen first-hand the original paintings and drawings by Charles Alexandre Lesueur of the marine species he observed/recorded while on his travels to Australia (Terra Australis), the Americas, and France. This has been a privilege.
2. I did not see all of these images, particularly in the Le Havre archive, due to a number of problems.
3. I have not understood enough of the hand-written French text that accompanied the drawnings and paintings in the Paris archive to extract the full value from that historical record. This element is a challenge not just because of the archaic language used but because the long-hand script has to be deciphered first.
4. As noted previously it is obvious the manuscripts are organised into chapters around the taxonomy of the fish described. This has obscured to a large degree the chronological and geographic precedence in the collection. There is also an added layer of uncertainty due to hand-written pencil notes on most of the paintings that were most likely added at a later date.
5. I have been able to locate at least half of the paintings/images used on the plates in the Journal -Atlas of the 1801-04 voyage, in the Paris archives. These paintings must have pre-dated Lesueur's American and later European work. Therefore given the regrouping of images into taxonomic hierarchies it is likely that other paintings from Terra Australis are also mixed in with later work.
6. I have at least partially achieved my goal of understanding Lesueur's style and aesthetic response to the completely novel images that the marine creatures of the New World presented.
Wednesday, 14 September 2011
Wednesday 14/09/2011, Central Library, Natural History Museum, Paris
Paris
14/09/2011
My room got cleaned: Nice clean room and squeaky sheets, life's simple pleasures. Lunch at the Spanish Maison turned out to be a fizzer; I walked in "low-profile" to check the menu/operating rules and they were serving steamed mussels. A Spanish speciality I know but a funny thing happened to me once in Spain.
It was at the La Coruna Crustacean conference and I went to a "sea-food festival" at a nearby fishing village, as you do when at a conference. The paella was magnificent, the octopus superb, but then there was the shell-fish dish! My flight(s) home were booked for the next day and I had fly just about the whole way back to Australia in the aircraft toilet. The 10 hour stop-over at Changi airport saved my life; I booked into the airport transit hotel with six bottles of water and re-hydrated, as well as showering and using their toilet frequently. The hotel arranged for appropriate medicine (related to quick-drying cement) and I got home in a reasonable state. I really was not well for about 48 hours, 36 of those hours were on aircraft or in transit lounges, mainly spent in, or in close proximity to, a toilet. Therefore, I do not not eat shell-fish, particularly Spanish ones!
I about faced quickly and ran; undignified maybe but to me quite justifiable. I bought my usual "Sandwich" from the Supermarket and ate it picnic style in the Park, watching the joggers go round and round! I may try for lunch again tomorrow but that was a close shave!
I spent a quite time at the Central Library just going back over a manuscript that dealt with molluscs and odd bits. I have managed to find and photocopy the original artwork or sketches for about a half of the species portrayed in the plates accompanying the Terra Australes Journal. These paintings and sketches had been re-grouped in the taxonomic "textbook" chapters, and did not indicate their origin. To be on the plates they must predate Lesueur's later American work so are definitely the original artwork from the 1801-04 Baudin voyage.
The story of matching up the Le Havre drawings with the Paris fish paintings is not so clear. The drawings may have been drafts for the final images hence are significantly different, or the Paris collection is based on a parralel but not identical series of images.
14/09/2011
My room got cleaned: Nice clean room and squeaky sheets, life's simple pleasures. Lunch at the Spanish Maison turned out to be a fizzer; I walked in "low-profile" to check the menu/operating rules and they were serving steamed mussels. A Spanish speciality I know but a funny thing happened to me once in Spain.
It was at the La Coruna Crustacean conference and I went to a "sea-food festival" at a nearby fishing village, as you do when at a conference. The paella was magnificent, the octopus superb, but then there was the shell-fish dish! My flight(s) home were booked for the next day and I had fly just about the whole way back to Australia in the aircraft toilet. The 10 hour stop-over at Changi airport saved my life; I booked into the airport transit hotel with six bottles of water and re-hydrated, as well as showering and using their toilet frequently. The hotel arranged for appropriate medicine (related to quick-drying cement) and I got home in a reasonable state. I really was not well for about 48 hours, 36 of those hours were on aircraft or in transit lounges, mainly spent in, or in close proximity to, a toilet. Therefore, I do not not eat shell-fish, particularly Spanish ones!
I about faced quickly and ran; undignified maybe but to me quite justifiable. I bought my usual "Sandwich" from the Supermarket and ate it picnic style in the Park, watching the joggers go round and round! I may try for lunch again tomorrow but that was a close shave!
I spent a quite time at the Central Library just going back over a manuscript that dealt with molluscs and odd bits. I have managed to find and photocopy the original artwork or sketches for about a half of the species portrayed in the plates accompanying the Terra Australes Journal. These paintings and sketches had been re-grouped in the taxonomic "textbook" chapters, and did not indicate their origin. To be on the plates they must predate Lesueur's later American work so are definitely the original artwork from the 1801-04 Baudin voyage.
The story of matching up the Le Havre drawings with the Paris fish paintings is not so clear. The drawings may have been drafts for the final images hence are significantly different, or the Paris collection is based on a parralel but not identical series of images.
Tuesday, 13 September 2011
Tuesday 13/09/2011, Cite'Universitaire/MNHN Central Library
Paris
13/09/2011
Up early because today the sheets are changed and the room is cleaned (used linen to be folded/piled neatly on bed and room vacated). Timing is important because if you are in your room, they simply leave it until next time, a week away! This gave me the perfect excuse to try the Spanish Restaurant for breakfast again. I made sure that my selection was exactly the same as the student ahead of me (i.e., the set menu), then at the check-out I handed the right change for a 2.8 euro "Petit Dejenure". We had a short discussion in French/English/Spanish but that was it. I got my breakfast!
I did some reading in the restaurant but ultimately had to go back to my room. Not cleaned yet but at least I had a pile of fresh bed-linen on the end of the bed. I connected to Internet and got to work, with one eye out for the cleaning ladies and ready for a fast exit! Only a week to go so a thorough, "professional" clean now will make my exit easier. My aim was to complete a section of the body of my Literature review; no word back from JCU supervisors on the draft introduction so I will continue with my "theme".
The chief Librarian at the Central Library pointed me to the Museum's web-site where they had images of some of Lesueur's artwork. Very similar images to the Le Havre Museum web-site, taken from the Terra Australes Atlas to Peron's journal. I have seen the original marine images first-hand in going through the Paris archived manuscripts, although I am sure the Le Havre curator and possibly the Paris librarians do not realise that is possible. [At this point the cleaning crew arrived so I "moved out", a displaced person for the morning.]
Back after working at the Central Library in the afternoon, a long shift going through the earlier manuscripts I had re-ordered comparing them to the "known" Terra Australes drawings from Le Havre. Not very successful; a case of close but not quite the same image on a number of species. I Photocopied a fair number and can go through them in detail later. I have another manuscript/box to go through today (Wednesday). Going through the images I have already photocopied has given me some pretty strikingly "similar" images to the drawings. I am wondering if the drawings were the precursor or "drafts" to the paintings and I need to allow for the differences. In any case I only have two more days, (three if Friday is allowed, but I need to give the staff at least a days notice to get photocopies). I did successfully manage a Smart-Phone video of the entrance and research area of the Central Library despite the strict "no camera" order.
During my displaced time (it is cold and intermittently wet in Paris at the moment), I checked-out the mens-wear shops for a spare pair of jeans. I was far enough away from the Cite' and the main tourist areas of Paris for there to be "French only" shop assistants, which was both a surprise and a language difficulty. The marked prices were obviously for locals, which was good but I did not get to try anything on (culturally not acceptable??) or buy anything. I may talk to the other floor residents to get a Department store style shop.
No breakfast today, I will try "Dejuener" aka lunch, at the Spanish Maison. I am immured to the fact I will pay 10 euros (because I am a not a student) but that is better than 15-20 for a hot meal "outside". It would have been nice to stay in the Maison actually, because the residents get the meals at the base price by signing off on the residents list.
13/09/2011
Up early because today the sheets are changed and the room is cleaned (used linen to be folded/piled neatly on bed and room vacated). Timing is important because if you are in your room, they simply leave it until next time, a week away! This gave me the perfect excuse to try the Spanish Restaurant for breakfast again. I made sure that my selection was exactly the same as the student ahead of me (i.e., the set menu), then at the check-out I handed the right change for a 2.8 euro "Petit Dejenure". We had a short discussion in French/English/Spanish but that was it. I got my breakfast!
I did some reading in the restaurant but ultimately had to go back to my room. Not cleaned yet but at least I had a pile of fresh bed-linen on the end of the bed. I connected to Internet and got to work, with one eye out for the cleaning ladies and ready for a fast exit! Only a week to go so a thorough, "professional" clean now will make my exit easier. My aim was to complete a section of the body of my Literature review; no word back from JCU supervisors on the draft introduction so I will continue with my "theme".
The chief Librarian at the Central Library pointed me to the Museum's web-site where they had images of some of Lesueur's artwork. Very similar images to the Le Havre Museum web-site, taken from the Terra Australes Atlas to Peron's journal. I have seen the original marine images first-hand in going through the Paris archived manuscripts, although I am sure the Le Havre curator and possibly the Paris librarians do not realise that is possible. [At this point the cleaning crew arrived so I "moved out", a displaced person for the morning.]
Back after working at the Central Library in the afternoon, a long shift going through the earlier manuscripts I had re-ordered comparing them to the "known" Terra Australes drawings from Le Havre. Not very successful; a case of close but not quite the same image on a number of species. I Photocopied a fair number and can go through them in detail later. I have another manuscript/box to go through today (Wednesday). Going through the images I have already photocopied has given me some pretty strikingly "similar" images to the drawings. I am wondering if the drawings were the precursor or "drafts" to the paintings and I need to allow for the differences. In any case I only have two more days, (three if Friday is allowed, but I need to give the staff at least a days notice to get photocopies). I did successfully manage a Smart-Phone video of the entrance and research area of the Central Library despite the strict "no camera" order.
During my displaced time (it is cold and intermittently wet in Paris at the moment), I checked-out the mens-wear shops for a spare pair of jeans. I was far enough away from the Cite' and the main tourist areas of Paris for there to be "French only" shop assistants, which was both a surprise and a language difficulty. The marked prices were obviously for locals, which was good but I did not get to try anything on (culturally not acceptable??) or buy anything. I may talk to the other floor residents to get a Department store style shop.
No breakfast today, I will try "Dejuener" aka lunch, at the Spanish Maison. I am immured to the fact I will pay 10 euros (because I am a not a student) but that is better than 15-20 for a hot meal "outside". It would have been nice to stay in the Maison actually, because the residents get the meals at the base price by signing off on the residents list.
Monday, 12 September 2011
Monday 12/09/2011, Central Library NNMN, Paris
Paris,
12/09/2011
Up not so early and put away the aired, washed clothes. As in all "institutions" the clothes dryers never actually dry the clothes. With a line of people waiting behind you, when the dryer goes "ding" you have got to be out of there, but the clothes are never fully dry! You end up draping shirts and underwear over all available bits of furniture and leaving the windows open. A bit chilly last night so I did not sleep all that well!
I did try out the "Spanish" restaurant for breakfast and it was good BUT! I got charged 4.2 euro (maximum charge) for a meal that should cost 2.8 euro (student charge)! Grumpy as!!
I realised I did not have video footage of the Cite' Universitaire so I shot some thirty second grabs and transferred them onto the computer. I can edit them together back in Cairns/Townsville for a montage of my Paris stay. I will need to get some shots of the Central Library as well, while I am here. I also took care of recharging my Orange Mobicarde. I bought a 15 euro voucher from the La Poste (Post office) and typed the serial number into the phone at the appropriate prompt on their telephone recharge number. All in French but pretty logical. Orange have been sending me very strange SMS/emails (re my Internet usage or the need to recharge). I ignored the Internet side and simply recharged for the next month, which should see me well and truly out of the country. If they are really unhappy with my Internet usage they will simply cut-off my phone!
Off to the Central library for the afternoon. I had received the message that there was only one archival Lesueur manuscript/box to go. I got through that box in about an hour, given it dealt with american frogs, toads, salamanders and lizards. I did order a photocopy of a crocodile (?saltwater croc) but I am pretty sure that came from Florida or the Bahamas. A note about the photocopies; I am not allowed to photograph documents or images but I can order colour photocopies of these that are done by the staff. A color photocopy costs .6 of a euro so I have been building up a bill.
I put an order in for Lesueurs "tropical fish" manuscripts for tomorrow. I want to go back over the painted images to compare them against the drawings from Le Havre (separated out for the Terra Australis voyage). I have already located a couple of paintings in various manuscripts that must have come from the Terra Autrales voyage, so it is as I had come to believe; Lesueur had reorganised his work into chapters for his taxanomic text, effectively mixing up the new and older paintings. I have "seen" Lesueur's Australian paintings but have not been able to distinguish them. I will take Bonnemains Le Havre catalogue tomorrow, and my own photographs and notes to see which ones match paintings in Lesueur's archive.
12/09/2011
Up not so early and put away the aired, washed clothes. As in all "institutions" the clothes dryers never actually dry the clothes. With a line of people waiting behind you, when the dryer goes "ding" you have got to be out of there, but the clothes are never fully dry! You end up draping shirts and underwear over all available bits of furniture and leaving the windows open. A bit chilly last night so I did not sleep all that well!
I did try out the "Spanish" restaurant for breakfast and it was good BUT! I got charged 4.2 euro (maximum charge) for a meal that should cost 2.8 euro (student charge)! Grumpy as!!
I realised I did not have video footage of the Cite' Universitaire so I shot some thirty second grabs and transferred them onto the computer. I can edit them together back in Cairns/Townsville for a montage of my Paris stay. I will need to get some shots of the Central Library as well, while I am here. I also took care of recharging my Orange Mobicarde. I bought a 15 euro voucher from the La Poste (Post office) and typed the serial number into the phone at the appropriate prompt on their telephone recharge number. All in French but pretty logical. Orange have been sending me very strange SMS/emails (re my Internet usage or the need to recharge). I ignored the Internet side and simply recharged for the next month, which should see me well and truly out of the country. If they are really unhappy with my Internet usage they will simply cut-off my phone!
Off to the Central library for the afternoon. I had received the message that there was only one archival Lesueur manuscript/box to go. I got through that box in about an hour, given it dealt with american frogs, toads, salamanders and lizards. I did order a photocopy of a crocodile (?saltwater croc) but I am pretty sure that came from Florida or the Bahamas. A note about the photocopies; I am not allowed to photograph documents or images but I can order colour photocopies of these that are done by the staff. A color photocopy costs .6 of a euro so I have been building up a bill.
I put an order in for Lesueurs "tropical fish" manuscripts for tomorrow. I want to go back over the painted images to compare them against the drawings from Le Havre (separated out for the Terra Australis voyage). I have already located a couple of paintings in various manuscripts that must have come from the Terra Autrales voyage, so it is as I had come to believe; Lesueur had reorganised his work into chapters for his taxanomic text, effectively mixing up the new and older paintings. I have "seen" Lesueur's Australian paintings but have not been able to distinguish them. I will take Bonnemains Le Havre catalogue tomorrow, and my own photographs and notes to see which ones match paintings in Lesueur's archive.
Sunday, 11 September 2011
Sunday 11/09/2011, Paris: Cite' Universitaire/Gare de Lyon
Paris
11/09/2011
I was up very early to the sound of heavy rain. I got straight into comparing the Lesueur drawings from Le Havre with the notes and photocopies I have from the Paris Central Library archive and there are a number of matches. I verified this with the plates Lesueur and Petit published in the Atlas associated with Perons Journal of the 1801-1804 voyage to Terra Australes.
Gabriella Bonnemains may just have got it wrong with separating out the Le Havre "Terra Australes" collection, but the Lesueur and Petit plates were produced before any of the Lesueur American drawings/paintings, therefore any matches for those animals would have to have been from Terra Australes. As it was both the plates and the Le Havre drawings appear to agree, hence matching paintings in the Paris manuscripts were most likely from the Terra Australes voyage. An excellent result!
I then had a quick breakfast and headed out to the RER station to trial-run the trip to Gare de Lyon, where I will catch the train to Adge on the 19th. September, (to go Barging on the Midi Canal). I did the same thing for the Eurostar station in London before making the trip to Paris.
The trip was an eye-opener. First the transfer between RER trains at Challet was not straight forward, then the crazy Gare de Lyon station itself. Like Gare du Nord, all the Metro and RER platforms are downstairs in a "rabbit warren" of tunnels, escalators, and turnstiles. The main-line trains are upstairs but there are security barriers to keep you from the platforms until 20 min prior to the train leaving! I found my way to the appropriate places (I think) but the system is completely different to the train trip I took to Le Havre. With luggage it is going to be really interesting!
I was actually hoping to book my forward journeys from Ghent to Vienna and then Vienna back through to London. I did find an information booth, but there was only one harassed staff member and a line of clients a mile long. Not the appropriate time or place. None of the ticket offices appeared to be manned, but the manned one(s) may have been situated elsewhere. In terms of travellers it was as busy as the Gard du Nord, but this was a Sunday! It looks like I book my Tickets on the Internet and hope I get it right. So far it has worked.
I did book my hotel in Ghent for 5 nights and did the research on getting to Vienna; Ghent to Brussels, Brussels to Cologne, Cologne to Vienna on a sleeper. Sounds like when I was using my Eurail card, 20-30 years ago! I also did some work on the Vienna to London run and was surprised by the reasonable cost. I have learnt to be wary of apparently cheap options on the online sites because invariably I have ticked the wrong boxes.
Mundane tasks such as a visit to the ATM, recharge my NAVIGO for next weeks travel at the RER station, and doing my laundry were all accomplished in the afternoon. I checked out the Spanish Maison Restaurant (again) and will try it for breakfast tommorrow. I am intrigued.
11/09/2011
I was up very early to the sound of heavy rain. I got straight into comparing the Lesueur drawings from Le Havre with the notes and photocopies I have from the Paris Central Library archive and there are a number of matches. I verified this with the plates Lesueur and Petit published in the Atlas associated with Perons Journal of the 1801-1804 voyage to Terra Australes.
Gabriella Bonnemains may just have got it wrong with separating out the Le Havre "Terra Australes" collection, but the Lesueur and Petit plates were produced before any of the Lesueur American drawings/paintings, therefore any matches for those animals would have to have been from Terra Australes. As it was both the plates and the Le Havre drawings appear to agree, hence matching paintings in the Paris manuscripts were most likely from the Terra Australes voyage. An excellent result!
I then had a quick breakfast and headed out to the RER station to trial-run the trip to Gare de Lyon, where I will catch the train to Adge on the 19th. September, (to go Barging on the Midi Canal). I did the same thing for the Eurostar station in London before making the trip to Paris.
The trip was an eye-opener. First the transfer between RER trains at Challet was not straight forward, then the crazy Gare de Lyon station itself. Like Gare du Nord, all the Metro and RER platforms are downstairs in a "rabbit warren" of tunnels, escalators, and turnstiles. The main-line trains are upstairs but there are security barriers to keep you from the platforms until 20 min prior to the train leaving! I found my way to the appropriate places (I think) but the system is completely different to the train trip I took to Le Havre. With luggage it is going to be really interesting!
I was actually hoping to book my forward journeys from Ghent to Vienna and then Vienna back through to London. I did find an information booth, but there was only one harassed staff member and a line of clients a mile long. Not the appropriate time or place. None of the ticket offices appeared to be manned, but the manned one(s) may have been situated elsewhere. In terms of travellers it was as busy as the Gard du Nord, but this was a Sunday! It looks like I book my Tickets on the Internet and hope I get it right. So far it has worked.
I did book my hotel in Ghent for 5 nights and did the research on getting to Vienna; Ghent to Brussels, Brussels to Cologne, Cologne to Vienna on a sleeper. Sounds like when I was using my Eurail card, 20-30 years ago! I also did some work on the Vienna to London run and was surprised by the reasonable cost. I have learnt to be wary of apparently cheap options on the online sites because invariably I have ticked the wrong boxes.
Mundane tasks such as a visit to the ATM, recharge my NAVIGO for next weeks travel at the RER station, and doing my laundry were all accomplished in the afternoon. I checked out the Spanish Maison Restaurant (again) and will try it for breakfast tommorrow. I am intrigued.
Saturday, 10 September 2011
Saturday, 10/09/2011, Paris, Cite Universitaire
Paris
10/9/2011
Today was much like yesterday, locked in my room searching the web for references. I shot off the first page of the introduction to the Lit Review to my supervisors for comment. Tomorrow I may just get on a bus or train for awhile to look at Paris again.
I got an email back from James Taylor (aka Westall scholar) and he had suggestions for cheap hotels near London. Imperial college got back to me too, with a list of Conference Accommodation Hotels that they use, all the residential college vacation letting has finished (as I expected). They were not cheap hotels; oh for an expense account!
No word back from Vienna but that will come next week in working hours I expect. I will book a Hotel in Ghent tonight or tomorrow as the first step in my planning. Then the train from Ghent to Vienna and a Hotel in Vienna when I get a better idea of the timing needed. My final expense(s) and bookings will be the Train from Vienna to London and the hotel near London for the best part of two weeks. This is not going to be cheap.
I have been spoilt by having both London and Paris accommodation prepaid from Australia, so I did not see the funds going out of my travel reserve account. Without the accommodation costs, I have been living relatively cheaply for the last six weeks. All an illusion of course; add $50-60 per day to get the real expenditure!
I did go out for short while today to one of the little restaurants on "campus" for lunch. I ordered a cheese omelette with salad and chips but got a plain omellette (ie two scrambled eggs) and chips. Either I did not order correctly or they ran out of both filling and salad. No communication in French, English or international hand-signals. I may not go back there.
However, I found the other restaurant in the Spanish House, which looks really good. The problem is like the main refectory there is a price for students and another for researchers/visitors. Compared to "outside" it is still cheap but!!!! (An example, a coffee olai costs a student 1.5 Euro and it costs me 2.3 Euro, although we are both served the same coffee at the same time! Outside, 2.5 Euro at most places, sometimes a bit cheaper.)
On the way back from lunch I made a quick call into the local Supermarket for some fruit and tea-bags, but on the way back got caught up in a market of bric-a-brac (Antiques) that had set up stalls around the RER Train Station. Lots of shady characters and junk. Interesting but I held onto my wallet the whole time I was there; it had that feel about it. Back to work on the lit review then I quit for dinner. After dinner I reviewed some of my images from Le Havre and hopefully will be able to line them up with paintings in Lesueur's manuscript on Monday. Doing the Blog at the moment then bed. All a bit boring but reasonably productive.
10/9/2011
Today was much like yesterday, locked in my room searching the web for references. I shot off the first page of the introduction to the Lit Review to my supervisors for comment. Tomorrow I may just get on a bus or train for awhile to look at Paris again.
I got an email back from James Taylor (aka Westall scholar) and he had suggestions for cheap hotels near London. Imperial college got back to me too, with a list of Conference Accommodation Hotels that they use, all the residential college vacation letting has finished (as I expected). They were not cheap hotels; oh for an expense account!
No word back from Vienna but that will come next week in working hours I expect. I will book a Hotel in Ghent tonight or tomorrow as the first step in my planning. Then the train from Ghent to Vienna and a Hotel in Vienna when I get a better idea of the timing needed. My final expense(s) and bookings will be the Train from Vienna to London and the hotel near London for the best part of two weeks. This is not going to be cheap.
I have been spoilt by having both London and Paris accommodation prepaid from Australia, so I did not see the funds going out of my travel reserve account. Without the accommodation costs, I have been living relatively cheaply for the last six weeks. All an illusion of course; add $50-60 per day to get the real expenditure!
I did go out for short while today to one of the little restaurants on "campus" for lunch. I ordered a cheese omelette with salad and chips but got a plain omellette (ie two scrambled eggs) and chips. Either I did not order correctly or they ran out of both filling and salad. No communication in French, English or international hand-signals. I may not go back there.
However, I found the other restaurant in the Spanish House, which looks really good. The problem is like the main refectory there is a price for students and another for researchers/visitors. Compared to "outside" it is still cheap but!!!! (An example, a coffee olai costs a student 1.5 Euro and it costs me 2.3 Euro, although we are both served the same coffee at the same time! Outside, 2.5 Euro at most places, sometimes a bit cheaper.)
On the way back from lunch I made a quick call into the local Supermarket for some fruit and tea-bags, but on the way back got caught up in a market of bric-a-brac (Antiques) that had set up stalls around the RER Train Station. Lots of shady characters and junk. Interesting but I held onto my wallet the whole time I was there; it had that feel about it. Back to work on the lit review then I quit for dinner. After dinner I reviewed some of my images from Le Havre and hopefully will be able to line them up with paintings in Lesueur's manuscript on Monday. Doing the Blog at the moment then bed. All a bit boring but reasonably productive.
Friday, 9 September 2011
Paris - Cite Universitaire
Paris
Friday 9/9/2011, Museum closed.
I spent the day wrestling with the Lit review. I got the first paragraph worked out and the concept for the manuscript about right. Now I have to flesh it out and do the citation/referencing properly. Not much written but I am progressing. I went out for food at lunch but that was about it for the sight seeing. I received an Email from Alice Lemaire saying the central Library will now be open on the Friday afternoons, so I can work there all next week before leaving Paris on the following Monday (19th of September).
I did some major organizing for the post-Ghent period. I sent an Email to Vienna requesting a date/time to view the Bauer archive, and I contacted Imperial college re possible accommodation back in London for two weeks prior to flying home. I have decided that I can get more value chasing up the Mathew Flinders voyage artwork (which did at least visit Queensland). The Ferdinand Bauer paintings may be the way for me to go rather than concentrating on Lesueur. In both cases however I have only done the reconnaissance on what was available and will probably need to come back for a detailed study, now I know what to look for and at! I will have a lot of images so I may have enough.
Friday 9/9/2011, Museum closed.
I spent the day wrestling with the Lit review. I got the first paragraph worked out and the concept for the manuscript about right. Now I have to flesh it out and do the citation/referencing properly. Not much written but I am progressing. I went out for food at lunch but that was about it for the sight seeing. I received an Email from Alice Lemaire saying the central Library will now be open on the Friday afternoons, so I can work there all next week before leaving Paris on the following Monday (19th of September).
I did some major organizing for the post-Ghent period. I sent an Email to Vienna requesting a date/time to view the Bauer archive, and I contacted Imperial college re possible accommodation back in London for two weeks prior to flying home. I have decided that I can get more value chasing up the Mathew Flinders voyage artwork (which did at least visit Queensland). The Ferdinand Bauer paintings may be the way for me to go rather than concentrating on Lesueur. In both cases however I have only done the reconnaissance on what was available and will probably need to come back for a detailed study, now I know what to look for and at! I will have a lot of images so I may have enough.
Thursday, 8 September 2011
Paris, National History Museum Central Library
Paris
8/09/2011
A big effort on the literature review this morning. Excellent searching on the internet: Matthew Flinders Australian Voyage journal, on Google eBooks of all places. The Journal has been scanned completely but I could not find the accompanying Atlas, that also has the plates, i.e., the artwork. A few other gems that I downloaded, then off to the Central Library. I stopped in at the Mosque Cafe opposite the Library and right next to a mosque, but they did not serve Cafe Ole (or an obvious non-Muslim).
The afternoon in the National History Museum Central Library was exceptionally productive. Because I had got the Flinders Journal in the morning I tried for the equivalent Baudin Journal at the Library. I was successful and went through:
Atlas historique : du Voyage de decouvertes aux terres australes, by Charles Alexandre Lesueur and Nicolas-Martin Petit. Volume 1 (containing the landform profiles and zoological plates)
All in French but I got photocopies of the main "marine" animal plates, which were all by Lesueur and definitely from Terra Australes. It was as I thought, there were animals on the plates that I had come across as I worked through the Manuscript/Boxes. Not identified as Terra Australes but sorted into the relevant taxonomic order. One of the nudibranches I had photocopied just yesterday was in the middle of the Lesueur "Terra Australes" plate!
Apart from the Baudin voyage journals I completed my review of Manuscript/Boxes 1745-1748. I am definitely coming to the end of his American period with these Boxes dealing with Turtles and Seasnakes (not to mention MS 1743 that had drawings of bears, wolves, squirrels, skunks, and mice).
8/09/2011
A big effort on the literature review this morning. Excellent searching on the internet: Matthew Flinders Australian Voyage journal, on Google eBooks of all places. The Journal has been scanned completely but I could not find the accompanying Atlas, that also has the plates, i.e., the artwork. A few other gems that I downloaded, then off to the Central Library. I stopped in at the Mosque Cafe opposite the Library and right next to a mosque, but they did not serve Cafe Ole (or an obvious non-Muslim).
The afternoon in the National History Museum Central Library was exceptionally productive. Because I had got the Flinders Journal in the morning I tried for the equivalent Baudin Journal at the Library. I was successful and went through:
Voyage de découvertes aux terres Australes: exécuté par ordre de Sa Majesté l'empereur et roi, sur les corvettes le Géographe, le Naturaliste, et la goëlette le Casuarina, pendent les années 1800, 1801, 1802, 1803 et 1804; [Historique] publié par dećret Impérial, sous le ministère de M. de Champagny et rédigé par M. F. Péron, ..., Volume 1 18## A Paris, De L'Imprimerie Royale
Voyage de découvertes aux terres Australes: exécuté par ordre de Sa Majesté l'empereur et roi, sur les corvettes le Géographe, le Naturaliste, et la goëlette le Casuarina, pendent les années 1800, 1801, 1802, 1803 et 1804; [Historique: Tome second] par ordre de son excellence le Ministre Secretaire D'Etat de L'Interieur (redige en partie par feu M. F. Péron) par M.L.Freycinet, ..., Volume 2, 1816, A Paris, De L'Imprimerie Royale.
Voyage de découvertes aux terres Australes: exécuté sur les corvettes le Géographe, le Naturaliste, et la goëlette le Casuarina, pendent les années 1800, 1801, 1802, 1803 et 1804; Sous le commandement du capitaine de vaisseau N. Buadin [Navigation et Geographie] Par M Louis Freycinet...., Volume 3, 1815, A Paris, De L'Imprimerie Royale
All in French but I got photocopies of the main "marine" animal plates, which were all by Lesueur and definitely from Terra Australes. It was as I thought, there were animals on the plates that I had come across as I worked through the Manuscript/Boxes. Not identified as Terra Australes but sorted into the relevant taxonomic order. One of the nudibranches I had photocopied just yesterday was in the middle of the Lesueur "Terra Australes" plate!
Apart from the Baudin voyage journals I completed my review of Manuscript/Boxes 1745-1748. I am definitely coming to the end of his American period with these Boxes dealing with Turtles and Seasnakes (not to mention MS 1743 that had drawings of bears, wolves, squirrels, skunks, and mice).
Wednesday, 7 September 2011
Paris, National History Museum Central Library
Paris
7/9/2011
I spent the morning getting my research notes up to date and beginning the MSc literature review. Last night I got confirmation of the 3rd Oct as my seminar at the Ghent University, and sent off a Title and Abstract. I went with the GBR linked-ecosystem modelling seminar but will try to broaden it a bit to show the advantages of JCU as a project partner. I also got a load of washing done so am pretty well up to date with my mundane tasks.
In the afternoon I put in a fairly big effort at the Central Library, getting through six manuscript/boxes. Not much that was useful apart from about three pages of drawings (no paintings yet) that were annotated "Terra Australes" or "Voyage to Terra Australes". Small very quiet "eureka" but all it means is that I have gone back just about far enough in his archive. I may run out of boxes or out of time. I have booked four boxes for tomorrow afternoon and hope there will be some of the Australian stuff in them.
7/9/2011
I spent the morning getting my research notes up to date and beginning the MSc literature review. Last night I got confirmation of the 3rd Oct as my seminar at the Ghent University, and sent off a Title and Abstract. I went with the GBR linked-ecosystem modelling seminar but will try to broaden it a bit to show the advantages of JCU as a project partner. I also got a load of washing done so am pretty well up to date with my mundane tasks.
In the afternoon I put in a fairly big effort at the Central Library, getting through six manuscript/boxes. Not much that was useful apart from about three pages of drawings (no paintings yet) that were annotated "Terra Australes" or "Voyage to Terra Australes". Small very quiet "eureka" but all it means is that I have gone back just about far enough in his archive. I may run out of boxes or out of time. I have booked four boxes for tomorrow afternoon and hope there will be some of the Australian stuff in them.
Paris, National History Museum Central Library
Paris
6/9/2011
Photos. A selection of tropical fish paintings from Lesueur's Paris Central Library Manuscript Folders, scanned by the Central Library staff at 300 dpi.
Note that none of the images are actually from Australian waters (that I can positively identify) but are the same/similar species as the drawings by Lesueur held in the Le Havre archive that did come from "Terra Australes". Tenuous link but all I have at the moment; I know what his Australian tropical marine images would/should look like.
I am now in a race to get all the manuscripts done before I my time in Paris is up. I have a four working days this week and maybe two next week (i.e., access to the archives, Monday to Thursday, 1400 to 1800 at the latest) then I leave on the 19th September. I allowed a month for what I thought would be a relatively simple task but both the size of the Paris archive and the time needed to go through the archived material were greater than I had anticipated.
My day went well. I found a barber and had a hair-cut (a mundane but still challenging task in a foreign city and a different language). Lunch then off to the Central Library and I completed Ms 1735 - 1738. The last two had dates around 1817 and mentioned earlier collections in the "South Seas" with Peron. I now have photocopies of tropical corals, nudibraches, and bivalve molluscs.
Finished the day by travelling into town to the Strazbourg area to meet with Jo and Dave for dinner, before they leave for Disneyland. I took the RER and Metro but our plans for me to call/text Jo's phone when I arrived fell through, as my much-vaunted Orange Mobicarte would not allow "International calls" to Jo's Australian mobile number. Dave walked down to the Metro Station to see where I was and luckily saw me on the other side of the street and waved frantically. We all went to a "really nice little", high-class restaurant where we had a very good meal, spent too much money, and had to leave a little bit of the wine on the table if I was to be able to navigate back to the Cite' Universitaire!
Another really good day.
6/9/2011
Note that none of the images are actually from Australian waters (that I can positively identify) but are the same/similar species as the drawings by Lesueur held in the Le Havre archive that did come from "Terra Australes". Tenuous link but all I have at the moment; I know what his Australian tropical marine images would/should look like.
I am now in a race to get all the manuscripts done before I my time in Paris is up. I have a four working days this week and maybe two next week (i.e., access to the archives, Monday to Thursday, 1400 to 1800 at the latest) then I leave on the 19th September. I allowed a month for what I thought would be a relatively simple task but both the size of the Paris archive and the time needed to go through the archived material were greater than I had anticipated.
My day went well. I found a barber and had a hair-cut (a mundane but still challenging task in a foreign city and a different language). Lunch then off to the Central Library and I completed Ms 1735 - 1738. The last two had dates around 1817 and mentioned earlier collections in the "South Seas" with Peron. I now have photocopies of tropical corals, nudibraches, and bivalve molluscs.
Finished the day by travelling into town to the Strazbourg area to meet with Jo and Dave for dinner, before they leave for Disneyland. I took the RER and Metro but our plans for me to call/text Jo's phone when I arrived fell through, as my much-vaunted Orange Mobicarte would not allow "International calls" to Jo's Australian mobile number. Dave walked down to the Metro Station to see where I was and luckily saw me on the other side of the street and waved frantically. We all went to a "really nice little", high-class restaurant where we had a very good meal, spent too much money, and had to leave a little bit of the wine on the table if I was to be able to navigate back to the Cite' Universitaire!
Another really good day.
Cathedral Notre Dame, plus Paris National History Museum Central Library
Paris
5/9/2011
5/9/2011
Photos Top of "bell tower" of the Notre Dame Cathedral Paris (with mandatory shot of Eiffel Tower in background)
Up early and off by RER to the Cathedral to meet up with Dave, Jo, and Jake. Arrived early but they had "strolled" there from their apartment and were having coffee in a near-by bistro. Joined them for a really good cup of "Cafe oe Lai". We then joined the que for the Cathedral entrance which took for ever and only when we got their did we realize it was for the 250 odd steps up to the top of the tower. We were chatting so really did not appreciate that it had taken 1.5 hours and then we were hit for 8 Euros, but it was a spectacular view (and it had a high safety fence for 2.5 year old Jake). Finished off at a side-walk restaurant for a lunch of Duck and a glass of Rose. A magic experience.
I had to do a "Cinderella" at 1.30 to get to the National History Museum Central Library by 2.00, which I just managed. I had ordered 4 Manuscripts (that are really individual boxes with cataloged 10x8 inch folders containing Lesueurs notes, sketches and small paintings). I go got through each manuscript/folder page by page looking for dates, places and species names to identify his paintings. As noted earlier the information has to be on the painting or in the document close by or there is no guarantee that you will know the place or date it was painted. A rather complex detective "challenge" as all documents are hand written (very small long-hand) and the majority in french.
I finished MS 1731-1734, ordering photocopies as I went. I also went back to request the download of the "photocopied" (scanned) images I had previously ordered and paid my photocopy bill.
All up a really entertaining and productive day.
Sunday, 4 September 2011
Sunday 4/09/2011, Paris: Cite' Universitaire/Musee d'Orsay
Paris
4/09/2011.
Despite good intentions re the Literature review, I realized it was the first Sunday in the month and therefore Museum entrance in Paris is free. Accordingly I worked out my travel plan by train (poor mans METRO); RER line B to Saint-Micheal Notre Dame, then change trains to RER line C to Musee d'Orsay. I spent most of the day rattling around this "ex-Victorian era Railway Palace", now one of the best art museums in Paris. By using the RER and staying indoors I avoided the frequent rain showers.
The d'Orsay also have an excellent restaurant, so I treated myself to a 20 Euro (plus tax and tip) plate "de saison". Poached Salmon (appropriate I thought) on a french carrot base, plus a pastry for desert. I asked for "just water", having choked at the wine list prices, forgetting that they only provide bottled water at an elevated price. Still, it was an excellent lunch. The first time I have treated myself in France, so far my meals have been either self-cooked or a cheap take-away. I also took a stroll by the Seine adjacent to the Museum and RER station. Very pleasant if slightly damp afternoon.
The reverse trip home was a little bit stressful. All I needed to do was retrace my steps but that is sometimes easier said than done! Unlike the bus, the RER has multiple lines and multiple destinations. Thankfully they are well sign-posted and the platforms have scrolling displays of the next trains and their routes. The problem is they (the signs and displays) are in French, and I am not familiar with the place names. Having access to Google map on my phone was a help.
Tomorrow morning I have to find my way to the Cathedral of Notre Dame by 10.30, to meet up with Dave and Jo Welch (and their 2.5 year old) who are on their way to Greece (via the French Disneyland). We are to do an early Lunch! I think the RER will be the easiest way again. No changes from line B and a stop labelled Notre Dame.
I think tomorrow is also a French holiday but I am planning to go to the Central Library at around 2 o'c in any case. I emailed the head librarian to find out if they are open; I may get an answer on Monday morning but then again, if they are not open I probably won't.
4/09/2011.
Despite good intentions re the Literature review, I realized it was the first Sunday in the month and therefore Museum entrance in Paris is free. Accordingly I worked out my travel plan by train (poor mans METRO); RER line B to Saint-Micheal Notre Dame, then change trains to RER line C to Musee d'Orsay. I spent most of the day rattling around this "ex-Victorian era Railway Palace", now one of the best art museums in Paris. By using the RER and staying indoors I avoided the frequent rain showers.
The d'Orsay also have an excellent restaurant, so I treated myself to a 20 Euro (plus tax and tip) plate "de saison". Poached Salmon (appropriate I thought) on a french carrot base, plus a pastry for desert. I asked for "just water", having choked at the wine list prices, forgetting that they only provide bottled water at an elevated price. Still, it was an excellent lunch. The first time I have treated myself in France, so far my meals have been either self-cooked or a cheap take-away. I also took a stroll by the Seine adjacent to the Museum and RER station. Very pleasant if slightly damp afternoon.
The reverse trip home was a little bit stressful. All I needed to do was retrace my steps but that is sometimes easier said than done! Unlike the bus, the RER has multiple lines and multiple destinations. Thankfully they are well sign-posted and the platforms have scrolling displays of the next trains and their routes. The problem is they (the signs and displays) are in French, and I am not familiar with the place names. Having access to Google map on my phone was a help.
Tomorrow morning I have to find my way to the Cathedral of Notre Dame by 10.30, to meet up with Dave and Jo Welch (and their 2.5 year old) who are on their way to Greece (via the French Disneyland). We are to do an early Lunch! I think the RER will be the easiest way again. No changes from line B and a stop labelled Notre Dame.
I think tomorrow is also a French holiday but I am planning to go to the Central Library at around 2 o'c in any case. I emailed the head librarian to find out if they are open; I may get an answer on Monday morning but then again, if they are not open I probably won't.
Saturday, 3 September 2011
Saturday, 3/09/2011, Paris
Paris: Cite' Universitaire
3/09/2011
Tackled all of my demons today: the RER station was completely straightforward. I used the vending machine that took cash and had the option of "English". The recharge of the Navigo card for a week, 5-11 September, cost 18.85 Euro and two single tickets cost 3.40 Euro. Reasonably quite in the station by chance, so I was lucky. Normally it is bedlam.
I had already "virtual toured" the trip to the "Boutique Orange" (128 rue de Rennes) on Google Map, so walked to the d'Orleans Metro station from Cite' and set-off to the Saint-Placide Metro station, closest to the Boutique. Short walk from the Metro to the store but a confusing conjunction of streets (? five to eight street intersection). Usual wait in a long que to see the reception in the Orange Store, then directed downstairs to the technicians, where there was another long que. I reached a techie but he spoke little English, however he made the effort and finally understood the problem with the Mobicarte and the Internet Max option.
Part of the answer was to remove the battery from the phone, which apparently reset the defaults, then start from scratch. 300 or so key presses later the phone recognized the Internet Max option and I had Google maps back on my HTC smart phone! I also had Google.com and therefore Gmail. Not sure if that is allowed on Internet Max (there is an additional option for mail, and an additional cost) but it worked. I used the Google map "location" option to get me back to the Metro station; easy as.
The assistant in the first Orange Store (where I had bought my Mobicarte originally) had been right, although why he/they could not have done the job there and then is anyone's guess. I think they are just too busy with new contracts for customer service to be cost effective for them. Hence a central "trouble shooting" Boutique.
All my "demons" slain in one highly-productive morning! Although the cost of the phone "repair" was one weeks lost internet access (only 3 weeks left on Internet Max) and 3.40 Euro in travel. It was an interesting experience, however, and did have some entertainment value.
I celebrated my "win" by buying myself a late "Petit Dejenure" at a cafe on campus at Cite'. The new students are arriving and all the "eateries" are re-opening. I bought supplies from the supermarket (and a french bread-stick "Sandwich" for lunch). Late lunch in the park opposite, which I explored in the afternoon. A very large park, deceptively so from its frontage opposite Cite' Universitaire. The "front entrance" is on one of the side streets and is quite grand.
Tomorrow I start gathering my thoughts and references for the first draft of a literature review.
3/09/2011
Tackled all of my demons today: the RER station was completely straightforward. I used the vending machine that took cash and had the option of "English". The recharge of the Navigo card for a week, 5-11 September, cost 18.85 Euro and two single tickets cost 3.40 Euro. Reasonably quite in the station by chance, so I was lucky. Normally it is bedlam.
I had already "virtual toured" the trip to the "Boutique Orange" (128 rue de Rennes) on Google Map, so walked to the d'Orleans Metro station from Cite' and set-off to the Saint-Placide Metro station, closest to the Boutique. Short walk from the Metro to the store but a confusing conjunction of streets (? five to eight street intersection). Usual wait in a long que to see the reception in the Orange Store, then directed downstairs to the technicians, where there was another long que. I reached a techie but he spoke little English, however he made the effort and finally understood the problem with the Mobicarte and the Internet Max option.
Part of the answer was to remove the battery from the phone, which apparently reset the defaults, then start from scratch. 300 or so key presses later the phone recognized the Internet Max option and I had Google maps back on my HTC smart phone! I also had Google.com and therefore Gmail. Not sure if that is allowed on Internet Max (there is an additional option for mail, and an additional cost) but it worked. I used the Google map "location" option to get me back to the Metro station; easy as.
The assistant in the first Orange Store (where I had bought my Mobicarte originally) had been right, although why he/they could not have done the job there and then is anyone's guess. I think they are just too busy with new contracts for customer service to be cost effective for them. Hence a central "trouble shooting" Boutique.
All my "demons" slain in one highly-productive morning! Although the cost of the phone "repair" was one weeks lost internet access (only 3 weeks left on Internet Max) and 3.40 Euro in travel. It was an interesting experience, however, and did have some entertainment value.
I celebrated my "win" by buying myself a late "Petit Dejenure" at a cafe on campus at Cite'. The new students are arriving and all the "eateries" are re-opening. I bought supplies from the supermarket (and a french bread-stick "Sandwich" for lunch). Late lunch in the park opposite, which I explored in the afternoon. A very large park, deceptively so from its frontage opposite Cite' Universitaire. The "front entrance" is on one of the side streets and is quite grand.
Tomorrow I start gathering my thoughts and references for the first draft of a literature review.
Friday, 2 September 2011
Friday 2/09/2011, Paris
Paris
Friday 2/09/2011 Museum closed.
I had a relatively late start but headed straight for the Orange Store where I had bought my Mobicarte and Internet Max. Still not operational so something has not been "activated". The woman who sold me the SIM was not there (unfortunately) and the available techie/salesperson directed me to the Orange Boutique near the Notre Dame Cathedral as the only place that sorted out Mobicarte problems. Highly skeptical of his advice because I know the brush-off when it happens; basically "we have your money now just go away". However I need to find the best way to the Cathedral so I will try to find this Boutique tomorrow, Saturday.
I will recharge my Navigo card for next week at the RER station and buy a couple of Metro tickets to get to the Cathedral and back. The address he wrote down was almost indecipherable but the desk lady at my Maison figured it out for me. By playing around with combinations of words in his address I got Google map to show me where I am supposed to go. Almost but not quite his directions. I will take my paperwork with me and see what happens. These stores are flat-out busy every time I go past one. Either Orange Telecom is very popular or they have lots of problems with their products!
I loaded the rest of the Le Havre video/images into the computer and will clear the memory card for fresh photos. I also need to back-up the computer files onto my portable hard-drive, a job for tomorrow.
I shot off a quick up-date (on the Le Havre archive research) to my JCU MSc supervisors and received a reminder that my literature review and seminar will be due when I get back. I have not worried about the review until now, being totally preoccupied so far with the planning and execution of the travel / field-research. I am connected to the internet so there is no real problem, other than motivation, in pulling together the relevant literature. Deciding what is relevant will be the crux of the matter.
I attempted to load some of my videos onto the blog but the software is resisting me!!! I loaded a still photograph of a Lesueur painting from the Le Havre collection, instead.
Photo. Lesueur painting, 6x8 inch watercolour, from the "Terra Australes" Baudin voyage.
Friday 2/09/2011 Museum closed.
I had a relatively late start but headed straight for the Orange Store where I had bought my Mobicarte and Internet Max. Still not operational so something has not been "activated". The woman who sold me the SIM was not there (unfortunately) and the available techie/salesperson directed me to the Orange Boutique near the Notre Dame Cathedral as the only place that sorted out Mobicarte problems. Highly skeptical of his advice because I know the brush-off when it happens; basically "we have your money now just go away". However I need to find the best way to the Cathedral so I will try to find this Boutique tomorrow, Saturday.
I will recharge my Navigo card for next week at the RER station and buy a couple of Metro tickets to get to the Cathedral and back. The address he wrote down was almost indecipherable but the desk lady at my Maison figured it out for me. By playing around with combinations of words in his address I got Google map to show me where I am supposed to go. Almost but not quite his directions. I will take my paperwork with me and see what happens. These stores are flat-out busy every time I go past one. Either Orange Telecom is very popular or they have lots of problems with their products!
I loaded the rest of the Le Havre video/images into the computer and will clear the memory card for fresh photos. I also need to back-up the computer files onto my portable hard-drive, a job for tomorrow.
I shot off a quick up-date (on the Le Havre archive research) to my JCU MSc supervisors and received a reminder that my literature review and seminar will be due when I get back. I have not worried about the review until now, being totally preoccupied so far with the planning and execution of the travel / field-research. I am connected to the internet so there is no real problem, other than motivation, in pulling together the relevant literature. Deciding what is relevant will be the crux of the matter.
I attempted to load some of my videos onto the blog but the software is resisting me!!! I loaded a still photograph of a Lesueur painting from the Le Havre collection, instead.
Thursday, 1 September 2011
Three days in Le Havre : the Lesueur collection at the Le Havre Natural History Museum
Le Havre
29/08/2011 to 1/09/2011
29/08/2011 to 1/09/2011
29/08/2011 (half day). I started work on the first day of arrival (1.30pm, after train from Paris to Le Havre and lunch provided by the Museum) but there had been a problem with security at the Le Havre Natural History Museum, due to the potential theft of a Rhino horn from a temporary African display. As a consequence or simply as a coincidence the key for the room holding the Lesueur paintings could not be found (taken off site for security?).
The archive store for the Museum is in a different part of Le Havre and holds the Lesueur drawings file/archive, which can only be accessed in the presence of the curator for security reasons. On examination this archive was comprehensive, however there was construction work being carried out at the store, an ex-military fort/prison, and the power/lights were off for most of the visit. It can get pretty dark in an ex-prison. We persevered using the available natural light and I went through the catalogue, selecting the drawings *known to have come from Australia. None from Queensland but six or seven from northern Western Australia. At least they were tropical species of marine life (mainly fish), from the Baudin voyage.
At this point it became apparent that two drawings from a known landing in WA were missing, unknown reasons. I photographed those that were available. Then as systematically as possible I went through all the drawings that had been separated out as coming from the general (no specific location) “Terra Australes” section of Lesueur's archive, taking photographs where possible in the low light circumstances. There was the usual and understandable, “no flash” stipulation; SOP when dealing with historic documents.
Unfortunately I was not able to get access to any of the Le Havre collection of Lesueur's paintings during the day and a half the curator was available. Therefore the visit was a limited success; I got barely what I needed and not what I really wanted.
Coding of the drawings, and hence my photographs, was according to the published, Societe Geologique de Normandie, 76130 -76443 (Charles ROUX & Jacqueline BONNEMAINS, 1984) catalogue.
On the 1/09/2011 I returned by train to Paris and completed my scheduled three-hour afternoon session in the Paris, National Natural History Museum, Central Library archive.
*Special Note 1: It was now obvious that Lesueur was collating his drawings and paintings into a taxonomic text-book based on fish order and the drawings/paintings donated to both Le Havre and Paris MNHM were in that format, not in the chronological or geographic sequence that they were originally produced. This makes actually identifying what artwork/drawings were created during the Baudin voyage very difficult unless Lesueur noted the date or location on the artwork itself, which he only did on relatively few of his works.
J. Bonnemains painstakingly noted and catalogued these identifiable works for the Le Havre collection. It seems from her catalogue that only about 20-30 drawings can be attributed with any certainty to the “landings” in the Baudin voyage. She also identified the drawings from the general “Terra Australes” section of Lesueur's archive (based on dates??), collated into four boxes, which I was able to go through attempting to identify the “tropical species” and therefore where on the Australian voyage they were likely to have been produced. The numbering of drawings in the boxes, particularly in box 4, was higher than that recorded in the catalogue, suggesting that a second volume may exist.
J. Bonnemains painstakingly noted and catalogued these identifiable works for the Le Havre collection. It seems from her catalogue that only about 20-30 drawings can be attributed with any certainty to the “landings” in the Baudin voyage. She also identified the drawings from the general “Terra Australes” section of Lesueur's archive (based on dates??), collated into four boxes, which I was able to go through attempting to identify the “tropical species” and therefore where on the Australian voyage they were likely to have been produced. The numbering of drawings in the boxes, particularly in box 4, was higher than that recorded in the catalogue, suggesting that a second volume may exist.
I have no indication from the Paris collection of any of the “Terra Australes” notation used by JB. Either I have not reached those records or they were not part of the collection she saw. However I now have a better “search image” of what to look for.
Special Note 2: The Baudin voyage stopped short of Queensland so I was never going to get my "perfect set of thesis images" but I can get the images of tropical fish that Lesueur saw and drew while in "Terra Australes". These same fish species, or very similar ones, he later painted extensively in the Caribbean, which I have already accessed/seen in the Paris archive. Therefore I do have an idea of the images he would have painted if he had got to Queensland, as a seed for my "contemporary art response".
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