Paris
28/08/2011
The Internet Max was not up (no internet at all) so I will try again tomorrow (the full 48 hours over a weekend?). I went through my travel documents for Le Havre (and for the Toulouse to Ghent leg) and there were discrepancies. I wanted to go to the Eiffel tower to check out the picnic areas so I planned a round trip by bus and tram to get me to the Gare Saint-Lazare to check on my tickets etc, then to the Eiffel tower via the "Champs Elesie" and back to Cite Universitaire. I intended to buy a filled-bread stick (called a Sandwich) and eat it under the "tour de Eiffel".
Firstly the trip by Bus 21 was well worn so no dramas, but the Gare Saint-Lazare was a maze of platforms and construction works. I found the information booth (in plain sight but not labelled in english) and a bilingual assistant (I had to wait in line) and I dealt with both problems. Firstly I will only find out the Le Havre platform 20 min before the train arrives (check the "big board"), secondly I do not have a booked seat so I have to go as quickly as possible to the far end of the train, past the carriages marked with yellow(?) and then just select a seat. I gather it can be a bit of a race.
The second problem was that I needed to pick-up my tickets for the Toulouse to Ghent leg of the trip and to check that one of the tickets I ordered on the internet was valid. It had been cheap, as I had ticked the over-60 box, but in the fine print it said that you had to show your season pass on demand. As expected that was the wrong ticket and I had to pay another 90 odd Euros. Better now than on the train with a rigidly french-speaking conductor breathing down my neck. I got a slight discount for an "early booking" but no age discount. I came out of the experience wiser and poorer (the two often do go together).
Strangely liberated I made my way the the "Stade" for Bus 80 to take me to the Eiffel tower. Two Stade's for the same bus going in opposite directions and no way to tell them apart. A "Little old lady" pointed out the directional arrows along the bottom of the posted time-table, which solved the problem. Not the first time she had been asked that question in broken french. On the bus ride to the Tower I again passed or crossed paths with the tourist buses, open-air double-deckers, in the cold showery weather. We went along the Avenue des Champs-Élysées for a little bit and I got to see the Arc de Triomphe down the end of the Avenue. Very Paris! Got to my stop then had to walk towards the Eiffel Tower through some back streets (along with several hundred people taking the same short-cut). The crowds matched the Louvre and the gardens were a bit ratty, BUT there were people lying and sitting on the grass. Picinic time! (Except for the rain showers).
I have been up the Tower a few times in the past so did not repeat the experience of battling the crowds up to the lookouts. I spent the time more productively wandering the edges of the park looking for a supermarket, all closed on a Sunday naturally. But there was a sandwich shop open in a side street so I got my French Bread Stick filled with ham, cheese, and tomato; and I stood under the Eiffel Tower and ate my Picnic (out of the light rain)! The trip back to the Cite' was not as salubrious, the bus and ultimately the tram went through the rougher, less touristy suburbs of Paris. My Navigo card still worked but the reader on the bus was reminding me to recharge it; the cards are charged from Monday to Sunday. Just made it!
Tomorrow will be an early day so I got back a bit early to do my laundry and pack (decide what to take in my day pack). It is for three nights, two travel days and two work days, so I really do not need much. Camera and laptop are essential but I may be washing out socks and undies each day!
Sunday, 28 August 2011
Saturday, 27 August 2011
Saturday 27/08/2011 in Paris: Gare Saint-Lazare and the Luxemberg Gardens
Paris
27/08/2011 Saturday: Non-working day.
Up early but got side-tracked by my Smart Phone. I tried typing in the #123# to see if I had an account and it came up on the second try; plus the menu I needed to load my 10 Euro voucher and to purchase the Internet Max Option. For the next couple of hours I was happily engrossed translating the menu instructions/options then working through them logically. The instructions in the Wiki were spot-on and it all appeared to work. The 9 Euro cost of the Internet Max was deducted from the 10 Euro voucher that I had entered initially. You have to wait 48 hours for the installation to take effect but according to the Wiki it is usually "up" way before that. I will give it 24 hours then try; i.e., tomorrow morning at the same time. I have to turn the Wifi and 3G back on, hopefully I remember how the Orange Telecom lady turned them off.
The "test" is to see if playing with the internet draws any funds from your Orange account. If it does then Internet Max is not working. If it is working it means I will be able to use the map function in Le Havre, when I will most probably need it.
Following my technology challenge I tried a transport challenge and headed for the Bus 21 "Stade" Chartely. This is the bus I need to get me to Gare Saint-Lazare to catch the train to Le Havre and I though a little pre-planning would not go astray. That bus also goes past the Opera House, Louvre, and the Luxemberg Gardens, so I also thought that some sight-seeing on the way would be a good idea. I had not virtual-walked the train station with Google Map so it was all new.
Bus 21 took a bit longer than I had estimated, meaning an earlier rise on Monday morning. It was interesting passing the open-air tourist buses going along most of our public bus route. There is an object lesson in there somewhere. Gare Saint-Lazare has 24 platforms and multiple multi-screen arrival/departure information points. I had a good wander around but did not see a train or platform marked intercity Le Havre, nor I did not see an "Information" booth, which is a worry.
Monday morning will be interesting. My ticket, booked over the internet, has the statement "place assise non garantie". I assume that there are no set seat allocations, much like a suburban train in Queensland; the alternative is that I stand all the way to Le Havre. If I can find the elusive "Information" booth, clarification is my first task when I get to the station.
On the way back, Bus 21 stopped at the Louvre where I hopped out and walked along the Seine and through the adjacent gardens. A magic spot for a picnic! Similarly I used the Bus 21 to get to the Luxemberg gardens and these too were spectacular. I managed a window seat for almost all of the trip segments so was very happy with the days outing. I was particularly interested as we went past the Opera House as adjacent there is the BNP Paribas Bank branch that I need to set up a non-resident account.
I called into the pastry-shop opposite Stade Chartely on my return, to pick-up a filled-bread-stick and a pastry for a late lunch. The plan was to eat my "picnic" in the grounds of Cite Universitaire but I was so hungry most of it was gone before I got through the gates.
Tomorrow is the last day on this weeks Navigo card. I will recharge it after I get back from Le Havre. I still have 5 single trip tickets from the "carnet" I bought in the EuroStar station in London so can get to the Gare Saint-Lazare on those on Monday (and back on the following Thursday).
27/08/2011 Saturday: Non-working day.
Up early but got side-tracked by my Smart Phone. I tried typing in the #123# to see if I had an account and it came up on the second try; plus the menu I needed to load my 10 Euro voucher and to purchase the Internet Max Option. For the next couple of hours I was happily engrossed translating the menu instructions/options then working through them logically. The instructions in the Wiki were spot-on and it all appeared to work. The 9 Euro cost of the Internet Max was deducted from the 10 Euro voucher that I had entered initially. You have to wait 48 hours for the installation to take effect but according to the Wiki it is usually "up" way before that. I will give it 24 hours then try; i.e., tomorrow morning at the same time. I have to turn the Wifi and 3G back on, hopefully I remember how the Orange Telecom lady turned them off.
The "test" is to see if playing with the internet draws any funds from your Orange account. If it does then Internet Max is not working. If it is working it means I will be able to use the map function in Le Havre, when I will most probably need it.
Following my technology challenge I tried a transport challenge and headed for the Bus 21 "Stade" Chartely. This is the bus I need to get me to Gare Saint-Lazare to catch the train to Le Havre and I though a little pre-planning would not go astray. That bus also goes past the Opera House, Louvre, and the Luxemberg Gardens, so I also thought that some sight-seeing on the way would be a good idea. I had not virtual-walked the train station with Google Map so it was all new.
Bus 21 took a bit longer than I had estimated, meaning an earlier rise on Monday morning. It was interesting passing the open-air tourist buses going along most of our public bus route. There is an object lesson in there somewhere. Gare Saint-Lazare has 24 platforms and multiple multi-screen arrival/departure information points. I had a good wander around but did not see a train or platform marked intercity Le Havre, nor I did not see an "Information" booth, which is a worry.
Monday morning will be interesting. My ticket, booked over the internet, has the statement "place assise non garantie". I assume that there are no set seat allocations, much like a suburban train in Queensland; the alternative is that I stand all the way to Le Havre. If I can find the elusive "Information" booth, clarification is my first task when I get to the station.
On the way back, Bus 21 stopped at the Louvre where I hopped out and walked along the Seine and through the adjacent gardens. A magic spot for a picnic! Similarly I used the Bus 21 to get to the Luxemberg gardens and these too were spectacular. I managed a window seat for almost all of the trip segments so was very happy with the days outing. I was particularly interested as we went past the Opera House as adjacent there is the BNP Paribas Bank branch that I need to set up a non-resident account.
I called into the pastry-shop opposite Stade Chartely on my return, to pick-up a filled-bread-stick and a pastry for a late lunch. The plan was to eat my "picnic" in the grounds of Cite Universitaire but I was so hungry most of it was gone before I got through the gates.
Tomorrow is the last day on this weeks Navigo card. I will recharge it after I get back from Le Havre. I still have 5 single trip tickets from the "carnet" I bought in the EuroStar station in London so can get to the Gare Saint-Lazare on those on Monday (and back on the following Thursday).
Friday, 26 August 2011
Friday 26/08/2011, Paris.
Paris
26/08/2011 Friday; the Museum is closed.
I gave up on the Bank account, just for now, and concentrated on my "Smart Phone" SIM card; as noted in earlier posts it requires data as well as calls so a normal PAYG "international SIM card" is not sufficient. The online sites were helpful but not diagnostic, although I found a Wiki that was really useful; prepaidwithdata.wikia.com/wiki/France
At the risk of getting lost in the maze of Paris back streets I hunted down not one but three Orange Telecom stores and two SFR Telecom shops. An interesting exercise in comparing prices (and service). I was going to be charged 17 Euro for a Mobicarde that ultimately cost me 9.50 euros (as the online site had recommended); I walked out of that Orange Store. The assistants in the two SFR shops knew what I wanted but did not handle pre-paid cards. The final Orange Store was also very busy (they all were) but a young woman took the time for a "small order" and I had my Mobicarde. She even knew about the "Internet Max" option and advised I get the help of a French speaker to set it up, using my mobile phone texting. (She recommended doing it twenty-four later to let all my paper-work go through the system). This was also the Wiki advice.
She was amazing; she had disabled the internet and phone functions (just as advised in the Wiki) and had got the old SIM card out, in a flash. She validated the new Mobicarde in her own phone, swapped it over to mine and had typed in the un-lock code (that I had wangled out of "3" Telecom in Australia) and tested it before I could read out the instructions that I had copied laboriously from the web. All for 9.50 Euros for the Mobicarde and 10 Euros for a recharge to start me off (and pay for one month Internet Max). For this I also get a free bonus of 5 Euros in calls as a new customer.
Tomorrow I find one of the bilingual front-desk girls at the Maison to help me set-up the Internet Max option and I am away!
My trip to Le Havre starts at about 7 am on the 29th, which is next Monday. I was getting confused as to the dates because my computer was still set on the Cairns time zone, which made the date right 50% of the time. I reset it it to Paris so now my schedule makes sense. I was nearly on my way on Sunday.
I emailed the curator Madame Baglione and set-up lunch then a trip to the archive. Thanks to Alice Lemaire at the Central Library I have a basic idea of what I am after! I also made contact with Tim Deprez at Ghent University and am setting up a 5 day visit and maybe a presentation. The next step will be to finalise the Vienna "Bauer sketches" research and the return though London to see the Westall paintings in Admiralty House. I may try for another visit to Le Havre, to get a little more time with the Lesueur paintings.
If there is time and funds I will make a dash for Prague, but only if it does not compromise the work. There is always next year.
26/08/2011 Friday; the Museum is closed.
I gave up on the Bank account, just for now, and concentrated on my "Smart Phone" SIM card; as noted in earlier posts it requires data as well as calls so a normal PAYG "international SIM card" is not sufficient. The online sites were helpful but not diagnostic, although I found a Wiki that was really useful; prepaidwithdata.wikia.com/wiki/France
At the risk of getting lost in the maze of Paris back streets I hunted down not one but three Orange Telecom stores and two SFR Telecom shops. An interesting exercise in comparing prices (and service). I was going to be charged 17 Euro for a Mobicarde that ultimately cost me 9.50 euros (as the online site had recommended); I walked out of that Orange Store. The assistants in the two SFR shops knew what I wanted but did not handle pre-paid cards. The final Orange Store was also very busy (they all were) but a young woman took the time for a "small order" and I had my Mobicarde. She even knew about the "Internet Max" option and advised I get the help of a French speaker to set it up, using my mobile phone texting. (She recommended doing it twenty-four later to let all my paper-work go through the system). This was also the Wiki advice.
She was amazing; she had disabled the internet and phone functions (just as advised in the Wiki) and had got the old SIM card out, in a flash. She validated the new Mobicarde in her own phone, swapped it over to mine and had typed in the un-lock code (that I had wangled out of "3" Telecom in Australia) and tested it before I could read out the instructions that I had copied laboriously from the web. All for 9.50 Euros for the Mobicarde and 10 Euros for a recharge to start me off (and pay for one month Internet Max). For this I also get a free bonus of 5 Euros in calls as a new customer.
Tomorrow I find one of the bilingual front-desk girls at the Maison to help me set-up the Internet Max option and I am away!
My trip to Le Havre starts at about 7 am on the 29th, which is next Monday. I was getting confused as to the dates because my computer was still set on the Cairns time zone, which made the date right 50% of the time. I reset it it to Paris so now my schedule makes sense. I was nearly on my way on Sunday.
I emailed the curator Madame Baglione and set-up lunch then a trip to the archive. Thanks to Alice Lemaire at the Central Library I have a basic idea of what I am after! I also made contact with Tim Deprez at Ghent University and am setting up a 5 day visit and maybe a presentation. The next step will be to finalise the Vienna "Bauer sketches" research and the return though London to see the Westall paintings in Admiralty House. I may try for another visit to Le Havre, to get a little more time with the Lesueur paintings.
If there is time and funds I will make a dash for Prague, but only if it does not compromise the work. There is always next year.
Thursday 25/08/2011 Paris, NMNH
Paris
25/08/2011.
Good day with a reasonable amount done. The Library is closed tomorrow (Friday) so I made the most of what time I had. I got through MS 1723 and MS 1724. The former had a variety of dates ranging from 1827 to 1839 and locations from the American mainland as well as the Caribbean. Most of the fish species appear to be from cold-water rivers and streams. The latter had drawings from a wider range of dates 1818 to 1832 and again from a number of areas including "Wabash", "Boston", "Southfork", "? Floride", "Philadephia" and "Sandwich Connecticute". A very similar content was in MS 1725 and 1726, with excellent water-colour (gauche) paintings (little gems) studded throughout. Most about six inches by eight inches or smaller, with a small number double this length but folded over. I took a couple of representative photocopies but not enough to do justice to the body of work these manuscripts represent. It is obvious from the organisation of the work into sections based on fish order, that this is the compilation for a text.
I have not reached the earlier "Australian" voyage documents and I am off to Le Havre early next week. Madame Lemaire kindly brought out her file on the publications from the Le Havre Museum of Natural History. This gave me a head-start on searching that archive. Again a large body of work.
I will be back next Thursday.
25/08/2011.
Good day with a reasonable amount done. The Library is closed tomorrow (Friday) so I made the most of what time I had. I got through MS 1723 and MS 1724. The former had a variety of dates ranging from 1827 to 1839 and locations from the American mainland as well as the Caribbean. Most of the fish species appear to be from cold-water rivers and streams. The latter had drawings from a wider range of dates 1818 to 1832 and again from a number of areas including "Wabash", "Boston", "Southfork", "? Floride", "Philadephia" and "Sandwich Connecticute". A very similar content was in MS 1725 and 1726, with excellent water-colour (gauche) paintings (little gems) studded throughout. Most about six inches by eight inches or smaller, with a small number double this length but folded over. I took a couple of representative photocopies but not enough to do justice to the body of work these manuscripts represent. It is obvious from the organisation of the work into sections based on fish order, that this is the compilation for a text.
I have not reached the earlier "Australian" voyage documents and I am off to Le Havre early next week. Madame Lemaire kindly brought out her file on the publications from the Le Havre Museum of Natural History. This gave me a head-start on searching that archive. Again a large body of work.
I will be back next Thursday.
Wednesday, 24 August 2011
Wednesday Central Library, Natural History Museum, Paris
Paris
24/08/2011
Today is my birthday and I had planned a Restaurant dinner but decided that the stress was not worth it, so cooked up a "special" meal at the college and bought a cheap bottle of white wine for the occasion! Worked out pretty well but it did highlight that I have not made any friends in the week I have been here. It would have been better to have celebrated in London before I came over.
As for every-day living in Paris (or rather in the very special place, the Cite' Universitaire); some good and some bad. I tried to set up a bank account on campus and was nearly there (as in signatures, photocopies of documents etc) when they asked about my student Visa. Now I could have got one, or at least the Long-stay Visa, but that would have meant a special trip to Sydney for the Photogrametry and interview. As an alternative I fitted everything I needed to do in the 90 days of an ordinary visa, but the unintended side-effect is no EU student bank account. I will check-out the non=resident accounts but they have to be negotiated in head-office.
I am also having a bit of a problem getting a "smart phone" SIM card. Not as easy as a normal mobile phone because it needs data (or internet), which is excluded from most cheap pay-as-u-go cards. When you go on-line for the Orange Telecom "MobiCarde" for example, they have "Internet exclu" on their classic card. Tried one "phone shop" for information and was brushed aside very quickly. My problem is that you need the "data" to run Google Maps so there must be a way (and a simple one at that). I will try again tomorrow morning.
Today I cleared the last of the batch of Manuscript boxes that the Library/Archive staff had got out for me. I am now back to Lesueur's early American period, and have some of his "Tropical" species sketches and small water-color paintings. These were from the Caribbean and Florida, rather than the Australian coast. There are about 20 boxes still in the archive and at two per session means at least two weeks work to go. I have got through 9 boxes in 3 days so the timeframe is reasonable. It is mind numbing going through the french text written in tiny text, trying to get the meta-data to fit the sketches and paintings into context.
I have yet to get to the Australian sketches, if they are here. So far no mention, even when Lesueur is putting together chapters for his book.
24/08/2011
Today is my birthday and I had planned a Restaurant dinner but decided that the stress was not worth it, so cooked up a "special" meal at the college and bought a cheap bottle of white wine for the occasion! Worked out pretty well but it did highlight that I have not made any friends in the week I have been here. It would have been better to have celebrated in London before I came over.
As for every-day living in Paris (or rather in the very special place, the Cite' Universitaire); some good and some bad. I tried to set up a bank account on campus and was nearly there (as in signatures, photocopies of documents etc) when they asked about my student Visa. Now I could have got one, or at least the Long-stay Visa, but that would have meant a special trip to Sydney for the Photogrametry and interview. As an alternative I fitted everything I needed to do in the 90 days of an ordinary visa, but the unintended side-effect is no EU student bank account. I will check-out the non=resident accounts but they have to be negotiated in head-office.
I am also having a bit of a problem getting a "smart phone" SIM card. Not as easy as a normal mobile phone because it needs data (or internet), which is excluded from most cheap pay-as-u-go cards. When you go on-line for the Orange Telecom "MobiCarde" for example, they have "Internet exclu" on their classic card. Tried one "phone shop" for information and was brushed aside very quickly. My problem is that you need the "data" to run Google Maps so there must be a way (and a simple one at that). I will try again tomorrow morning.
Today I cleared the last of the batch of Manuscript boxes that the Library/Archive staff had got out for me. I am now back to Lesueur's early American period, and have some of his "Tropical" species sketches and small water-color paintings. These were from the Caribbean and Florida, rather than the Australian coast. There are about 20 boxes still in the archive and at two per session means at least two weeks work to go. I have got through 9 boxes in 3 days so the timeframe is reasonable. It is mind numbing going through the french text written in tiny text, trying to get the meta-data to fit the sketches and paintings into context.
I have yet to get to the Australian sketches, if they are here. So far no mention, even when Lesueur is putting together chapters for his book.
Tuesday, 23 August 2011
Second day at the Central Library NNHM, Paris
Paris
23/08/2011
I got through two more boxes of documents today. The contents are from an earlier period when Lesueur was in America; his "New Harmony" period. So far the boxes have been:
Later period in Le Havre, with drawings of mainly littoral or just sub-littoral shellfish and fossils;
MS 1715 Chalk cliffs and Anomite fossils
MS 1716
MS 1717 Havre and Rouen on some drawings
MS 1718 (Dated letter 1844)
MS 1719 (Date 1842)
MS 1720 (Dates 1833 - 38 -41 )
MS 1721 (New Harmony letter, 1830)
MS 1722 (Dates ranging from 1810 trough to 1837, so a mixed series of drawings. Locations of "quadeloupe", "Martinique", "Barbados", New Orleans", and a letter dated 1822 from "Philodelphia Pensyls".) Both boxes have excellent drawings and water colour renditions of tropical and sub-tropical fish.
Away from the museum I found a "Phone shop" but the salesperson was not really interested in a "pre-paid SIM card only" order; he was interested in selling the more expensive plans and phones. I will try again with a specific "Orange store". I also spoke with PNP Parnas Bank on campus, and will try to set up an account with them tommorrow. It is free for the first year and I get a Debit Card. I can drop my extra funds there at the current exchange rate, which has come back up a bit thankfully, and then I will be immune to the rate fluctuations. One less worry.
23/08/2011
I got through two more boxes of documents today. The contents are from an earlier period when Lesueur was in America; his "New Harmony" period. So far the boxes have been:
Later period in Le Havre, with drawings of mainly littoral or just sub-littoral shellfish and fossils;
MS 1715 Chalk cliffs and Anomite fossils
MS 1716
MS 1717 Havre and Rouen on some drawings
MS 1718 (Dated letter 1844)
MS 1719 (Date 1842)
MS 1720 (Dates 1833 - 38 -41 )
MS 1721 (New Harmony letter, 1830)
MS 1722 (Dates ranging from 1810 trough to 1837, so a mixed series of drawings. Locations of "quadeloupe", "Martinique", "Barbados", New Orleans", and a letter dated 1822 from "Philodelphia Pensyls".) Both boxes have excellent drawings and water colour renditions of tropical and sub-tropical fish.
Away from the museum I found a "Phone shop" but the salesperson was not really interested in a "pre-paid SIM card only" order; he was interested in selling the more expensive plans and phones. I will try again with a specific "Orange store". I also spoke with PNP Parnas Bank on campus, and will try to set up an account with them tommorrow. It is free for the first year and I get a Debit Card. I can drop my extra funds there at the current exchange rate, which has come back up a bit thankfully, and then I will be immune to the rate fluctuations. One less worry.
Monday, 22 August 2011
1st Day at the Central Library, National History Museum, Paris
Bibliotheque, Museum d'Histoire Naturelle Paris
22/08/2011
On Sunday, on the way back from the Louvre, I negotiated a NAVIGO card at the RER station near the Cite Universitaire. 5 Euro for the electronic card then 18.85 Euro for a weeks recharge for unlimited travel on bus, metro, tram or train (and I even saw a bicycle being hired with one). Convenient but you have to be travelling a lot to make it worth while. My two trips a day to the Central Library and back @ 1.30 Euro, plus any sightseeing on the weekend, just makes it. The Carnet was a good deal as well, but not quite as "convenient". I have noticed a lot of Parisians just use the Carnet tickets. Much cheaper if you only have a few trips per week.
Today was the first day I got access the Lesueur archived documents and sketches. Both Sarah Thomas and Vivone Thwaites had warned me that I would probably need to go through all the "boxes" to make sure that I did not miss any gems. Today the boxes held sketches from Lesueur's later "Le Havre" stage with dates on the notes for the sketches ranging from 1833 through to 1844, and the locations mentioned were Le Havre and Rouen. Mainly drawings of univalves, bivales and fossils. Definitely working up to a taxonomy text-book of some kind. Notes interleaved with the sketches were on the taxonomic detail and from an English speaker (as well as Lesueur's french notes).
The painstaking detail in the very small drawings was incredible. Reading the minute writing and the fine detail gave me eye-strain and a head-ache after a relatively short time; actually producing these would have required good eyesight and a strong light.
I noticed a number of strange things as I worked through the archived drawings; given the dates and subject matter Lesueur was back in France at Le Havre and presumably reasonably well provided for, yet the drawings are on small pieces of paper, sometimes drawn on both sides, and the paper is of varying quality. I originally assumed these were earlier sketches when paper would have been a scarce commodity on board ship but given the dates this was not the case. These may be the preliminary sketches on "scrap" paper with the final worked sketches elsewhere.
Back to the Central Library tomorrow for more boxes.
22/08/2011
On Sunday, on the way back from the Louvre, I negotiated a NAVIGO card at the RER station near the Cite Universitaire. 5 Euro for the electronic card then 18.85 Euro for a weeks recharge for unlimited travel on bus, metro, tram or train (and I even saw a bicycle being hired with one). Convenient but you have to be travelling a lot to make it worth while. My two trips a day to the Central Library and back @ 1.30 Euro, plus any sightseeing on the weekend, just makes it. The Carnet was a good deal as well, but not quite as "convenient". I have noticed a lot of Parisians just use the Carnet tickets. Much cheaper if you only have a few trips per week.
Today was the first day I got access the Lesueur archived documents and sketches. Both Sarah Thomas and Vivone Thwaites had warned me that I would probably need to go through all the "boxes" to make sure that I did not miss any gems. Today the boxes held sketches from Lesueur's later "Le Havre" stage with dates on the notes for the sketches ranging from 1833 through to 1844, and the locations mentioned were Le Havre and Rouen. Mainly drawings of univalves, bivales and fossils. Definitely working up to a taxonomy text-book of some kind. Notes interleaved with the sketches were on the taxonomic detail and from an English speaker (as well as Lesueur's french notes).
The painstaking detail in the very small drawings was incredible. Reading the minute writing and the fine detail gave me eye-strain and a head-ache after a relatively short time; actually producing these would have required good eyesight and a strong light.
I noticed a number of strange things as I worked through the archived drawings; given the dates and subject matter Lesueur was back in France at Le Havre and presumably reasonably well provided for, yet the drawings are on small pieces of paper, sometimes drawn on both sides, and the paper is of varying quality. I originally assumed these were earlier sketches when paper would have been a scarce commodity on board ship but given the dates this was not the case. These may be the preliminary sketches on "scrap" paper with the final worked sketches elsewhere.
Back to the Central Library tomorrow for more boxes.
Sunday, 21 August 2011
Saturday and Sunday in Paris Summer 2011
Paris
21/08/2011 (for both Saturday and Sunday
I did the "walk in the Park" in the large public park next to Cite' Universitaire (see photo) and planned my trip by bus to the Louve for tomorrow. An Arts Student cannot visit Paris without this pilgrimage!
Photo It was a beautiful summers day with a gentle breeze and this was an island of "spring" colour.
I continued on with my walk and circumnavigated the Cite' Universitaire complex, in so doing located another two supermarkets and another couple of pastry shops. No Orange Telecom outlet yet.
The Louvre
Sunday the 21/08/2011
For the seventh time, over a period of years, I planned my visit to the Louve, this time using buses rather than the Metro (which has always been my favorite means of transport). The problem is that you do not get to see much of the Paris scenery except Metro stations! Also I am more or less forced to use the bus as the it is some distance to a Metro (not all that far, I located one on my walk yesterday).
According to my research a Number 67 bus should take me past Louvre-Rivoli and loop out to the Pigalle and back to Cite again. Worst case I end up back where I started! As it turned out I did not recognize the Louvre-Rivoli Stade (No Pyramid!!) and did a bus tour of the Pigalle before looping back along the river where I did recognize the Louvre building and jumped off. Local buses stop behind the main building, not in front as the tour buses do; i.e., no view of the Pyramid therefore wrong search image.
Once through the security lines I went straight to the Information desk to apply for a Student free-pass. They would accept that I was a student, but could not be convinced that I was under 26 years old. I tried "Researcher", "Teacher", etc but by then I had blown my chances. Ageism!
Photo Crowds entering the Louvre "Pyramid", typical of the usual congestion. The crowds inside increased the heat of an already hot/humid day.
Usual lines and milling crowds but I got my mandatory photo of the Mona Lisa. Two actually:
Photo My career seventh photo of Da Vinci's Mona Lisa, over the heads of the seven or eight deep scrum of tourists.
The first photo was "with illegal flash" courtesy of another tourist in the front row. All "we" got was reflections of the flash off the glass case!! Second photo with no flash was better but the Text books have by far better reproductions. In fact if I was the Louvre I would have a reproduction hanging there and the original tucked away in an environment controlled safe.
The "medieval Louvre" in the sub-basement came as a rescue from the heat and crowds. I did manage most of the "Italians" and a lot of the French painters. Took a detailed look at the glass and ceramics this time as well, but the crowds beat me in the end.
I jumped on a Number 21 Bus because the on-line information promised it would stop at "Stade: Cite' Universtaire", which it did, during a rain-shower! All up a good day.
21/08/2011 (for both Saturday and Sunday
I did the "walk in the Park" in the large public park next to Cite' Universitaire (see photo) and planned my trip by bus to the Louve for tomorrow. An Arts Student cannot visit Paris without this pilgrimage!
I continued on with my walk and circumnavigated the Cite' Universitaire complex, in so doing located another two supermarkets and another couple of pastry shops. No Orange Telecom outlet yet.
The Louvre
Sunday the 21/08/2011
For the seventh time, over a period of years, I planned my visit to the Louve, this time using buses rather than the Metro (which has always been my favorite means of transport). The problem is that you do not get to see much of the Paris scenery except Metro stations! Also I am more or less forced to use the bus as the it is some distance to a Metro (not all that far, I located one on my walk yesterday).
According to my research a Number 67 bus should take me past Louvre-Rivoli and loop out to the Pigalle and back to Cite again. Worst case I end up back where I started! As it turned out I did not recognize the Louvre-Rivoli Stade (No Pyramid!!) and did a bus tour of the Pigalle before looping back along the river where I did recognize the Louvre building and jumped off. Local buses stop behind the main building, not in front as the tour buses do; i.e., no view of the Pyramid therefore wrong search image.
Once through the security lines I went straight to the Information desk to apply for a Student free-pass. They would accept that I was a student, but could not be convinced that I was under 26 years old. I tried "Researcher", "Teacher", etc but by then I had blown my chances. Ageism!
Photo Crowds entering the Louvre "Pyramid", typical of the usual congestion. The crowds inside increased the heat of an already hot/humid day.
Usual lines and milling crowds but I got my mandatory photo of the Mona Lisa. Two actually:
Photo My career seventh photo of Da Vinci's Mona Lisa, over the heads of the seven or eight deep scrum of tourists.
The first photo was "with illegal flash" courtesy of another tourist in the front row. All "we" got was reflections of the flash off the glass case!! Second photo with no flash was better but the Text books have by far better reproductions. In fact if I was the Louvre I would have a reproduction hanging there and the original tucked away in an environment controlled safe.
The "medieval Louvre" in the sub-basement came as a rescue from the heat and crowds. I did manage most of the "Italians" and a lot of the French painters. Took a detailed look at the glass and ceramics this time as well, but the crowds beat me in the end.
I jumped on a Number 21 Bus because the on-line information promised it would stop at "Stade: Cite' Universtaire", which it did, during a rain-shower! All up a good day.
Friday, 19 August 2011
Central Library, National Natural History Museum, Paris
Paris
19/08/2011 Afternoon
An excellent day. The Central Library is actually not open to the public on Fridays so I was taking a chance by trying to get my documentation/registration done today. I tested out the transport; i.e., walking to a Stade (Stop) some distance away from the Cite' then catching a Number 67 Bus, and finally walking a short distance to the Library. The "Stops" were well marked and agreed basically with my hand-drawn map(s) so the trip was relatively painless. I got to the Library a little ahead of the 1400 opening, introduced myself and asked for Alice Lemaire. I am not sure but she may have been called in specially, but they definitely were not expecting me.
Photo Central Library of the National Natural History Museum, Paris
I introduced myself, made my apologies for being two days late, and presented my ID, paperwork etc. Alice explained that I could not use the archive on a Friday but we could take care of the ID Card that I would need to gain access. I had my documents and photographs so we had completed the process in record time. I was back on the street about 1.5 hours later. We made arrangements for me to come back on next Monday at 1400 to start on the Lesueur research.
I did a retrace of my trip out to the Library, again relatively painless, and was back at the Cite' in time to buy a chocolate pastry. Much relieved, and a bit more relaxed, the first phase of the most important task of the Paris visit had gone well.
Just a note: the Central Library is separate to the Museum proper, which is at at another address nearby. The Library is in an industrial/commercial looking building but it does have a wrought-iron spiked front fence as security (see Photos above). I had visited the Museum as a PhD student (many years ago) so was a bit confused by the different address. This was the same situation in Greenwich at the NMM, where there archive store was in an industrial complex nearby the more "heritage looking" Library proper.
19/08/2011 Afternoon
An excellent day. The Central Library is actually not open to the public on Fridays so I was taking a chance by trying to get my documentation/registration done today. I tested out the transport; i.e., walking to a Stade (Stop) some distance away from the Cite' then catching a Number 67 Bus, and finally walking a short distance to the Library. The "Stops" were well marked and agreed basically with my hand-drawn map(s) so the trip was relatively painless. I got to the Library a little ahead of the 1400 opening, introduced myself and asked for Alice Lemaire. I am not sure but she may have been called in specially, but they definitely were not expecting me.
Photo Central Library of the National Natural History Museum, Paris
I introduced myself, made my apologies for being two days late, and presented my ID, paperwork etc. Alice explained that I could not use the archive on a Friday but we could take care of the ID Card that I would need to gain access. I had my documents and photographs so we had completed the process in record time. I was back on the street about 1.5 hours later. We made arrangements for me to come back on next Monday at 1400 to start on the Lesueur research.
I did a retrace of my trip out to the Library, again relatively painless, and was back at the Cite' in time to buy a chocolate pastry. Much relieved, and a bit more relaxed, the first phase of the most important task of the Paris visit had gone well.
Just a note: the Central Library is separate to the Museum proper, which is at at another address nearby. The Library is in an industrial/commercial looking building but it does have a wrought-iron spiked front fence as security (see Photos above). I had visited the Museum as a PhD student (many years ago) so was a bit confused by the different address. This was the same situation in Greenwich at the NMM, where there archive store was in an industrial complex nearby the more "heritage looking" Library proper.
Cite' Internationale de Universitaire, Paris
18/08/2011 Afternoon.
I completed all my logistics tasks; getting money (found ATM, used ANZ Travel Card and was charged 2.5 Euro by ANZ for the privilege), local supermarket for basics, Uni student eatery for lunch (but was charged as a visitor at double student rate for bad food), and the laundry in complex to wash shirts. I also found the CIUP and BASE offices (mobile researcher support) but it is closed for until the 22 August.
It is hot and humid in Paris at the moment so I spent a pleasant afternoon wandering the park-like grounds of the Cite' Universitaire taking photos of the various colleges. I have tried to upload a couple of these to give the flavour/concept of the place.
Photo. The Maison de Provinces de France. I am staying in a "Studio, double, comfort" (tiny bed-sit) on the first floor on the left wing of the building.
Photo The rear of the main administration building showing the park-like grounds of the Cite'.
Photo One of the typical "Maisons"; there are about 36 shown on the residents orientation Map.
Photo A slightly more modern Maison but following the "style".
Photo. The Front entrance to the Cite' Internationale du Universitaire, Paris. First thing you see as you walk off the street after getting off the RER.
I started the planning using Google Maps to get to the Natural History Museum, but it looks like a fair amount of walking and a bus ride will be the easiest way to get there. I will wait until the peak traffic subsides before making my attempt. I have to check that the Library is in the same building or I am going to be lost.
One more task is to get a PAYG Sim card for my smart phone, which I was going to do through CIUP. Despite having a UK "3" network I got "no carrier" in the London.
I completed all my logistics tasks; getting money (found ATM, used ANZ Travel Card and was charged 2.5 Euro by ANZ for the privilege), local supermarket for basics, Uni student eatery for lunch (but was charged as a visitor at double student rate for bad food), and the laundry in complex to wash shirts. I also found the CIUP and BASE offices (mobile researcher support) but it is closed for until the 22 August.
It is hot and humid in Paris at the moment so I spent a pleasant afternoon wandering the park-like grounds of the Cite' Universitaire taking photos of the various colleges. I have tried to upload a couple of these to give the flavour/concept of the place.
I started the planning using Google Maps to get to the Natural History Museum, but it looks like a fair amount of walking and a bus ride will be the easiest way to get there. I will wait until the peak traffic subsides before making my attempt. I have to check that the Library is in the same building or I am going to be lost.
One more task is to get a PAYG Sim card for my smart phone, which I was going to do through CIUP. Despite having a UK "3" network I got "no carrier" in the London.
Thursday, 18 August 2011
Paris first day - Cite Universitaire
17/8/2011
London - Paris
A very good, but typical, Travel-Day; where the sole object is to get to the destination through all the obstacles, leaving little time to smell the roses. One of the down-sides to organizing everything yourself.
First task of the day was to answer my emails, one of which was from the MoD Art Curator and I have an appointment to view the Westall Paintings at Admiralty House on the 25th October (on my way back to Australia on the 28th). Excellent news.
Next task was to clean the bed-set, complete the last minute packing, and to check-out of Orient House. I followed this with a brisk walk to the Fulham Broadway Tube station. Just made it to the train (Underground, change lines once), that took me to the EuroStar Train Station, St Pancras, to board the EuroStar (Standard Premier Class) that took me to Paris, Gare du Nord (Station of the North), where I caught an Paris RER local train to the Cite Universite.
My EuroStar experience was extra good with a comfortable armchair, window seat, a cold 2-course meal (hot 3-course meal only for Premier-Premier class), and a very nice white wine, with two cups of coffee at the end. The chocolate-nougat after dinner mint was a nice touch as well. Points that I did not realise were that your luggage goes with you and is handled by you; so you get to put it into the overhead rack yourself. Be sure it is not too large or heavy; there were some shocked American tourists on my trip, although there is space at the ends of each carriage for really bulky items.
At no point on these travel interchanges was my progress simple or straightforward (and French railway officials have not changed). I am really glad I had no more luggage than I do as the lifts/escalators were not working in a number of stations along the way. Despite two hours of Standard-Premier class luxury on the EuroStar I was hot and tried by the time the day was over. Gare du Nord is huge, busy, and despite Information booths there is really very little to help you. Intensive use of the internet and blogs had got me all I really needed, except the basic plan of the station and an idea of which platform I needed to reach to get my RER train. (This is a local Paris line so does not have the attention paid to it as the Trans-Europe Expresses, EuroStar, etc.) After much stuffing around (living in the moment, totally reactive), I got through 3 sets of ticket-turnstiles (one by tagging onto a tour-group, all pulling the trolley-cases like me), found my RER train and was on my very-crowded way.
I had used Google Maps to walk from the RER station to the college where I was to stay so I was very confident I knew my way. On the ground it was a little bit different as the access to the building was not on the street side (that I had virutal-walked) but from inside the main complex. A little back tracking and following instinct got me to the front doors and ultimately the desk.
I was at the front desk of the Cite Internationale de Universitaire, Maison des Provinces de France, before 5 pm and presented my paperwork to a (thankfully) bilingual desk lady. All the organising paid-off and I was on their books, pre-paid for 33 days. I have small bed-sit with a en-suite and a kitchenette.
Last act of the day was to visit a nearby take-away for a Formula Chicken (6 Euro) that consisted of a hot chicken roll, chips, and a coke. I had not calculated on the Cite' cafeterias/restaurants etc being closed over the holidays. The meal on the EuroStar had been very tasty but the portion size was less than adequate, and I had skipped breakfast, so Food was a priority.
Paris
18/08/2011 morning
Today is my first day in Paris but I have decided to take care of the logistics first. I will locate the college laundry, vending machines, local super market, local restaurants, Banks etc, and stock up on staples like eggs and milk (and maybe pastries). Tomorrow I will sort out the Museum dHistoire Naturalle library.
London - Paris
A very good, but typical, Travel-Day; where the sole object is to get to the destination through all the obstacles, leaving little time to smell the roses. One of the down-sides to organizing everything yourself.
First task of the day was to answer my emails, one of which was from the MoD Art Curator and I have an appointment to view the Westall Paintings at Admiralty House on the 25th October (on my way back to Australia on the 28th). Excellent news.
Next task was to clean the bed-set, complete the last minute packing, and to check-out of Orient House. I followed this with a brisk walk to the Fulham Broadway Tube station. Just made it to the train (Underground, change lines once), that took me to the EuroStar Train Station, St Pancras, to board the EuroStar (Standard Premier Class) that took me to Paris, Gare du Nord (Station of the North), where I caught an Paris RER local train to the Cite Universite.
My EuroStar experience was extra good with a comfortable armchair, window seat, a cold 2-course meal (hot 3-course meal only for Premier-Premier class), and a very nice white wine, with two cups of coffee at the end. The chocolate-nougat after dinner mint was a nice touch as well. Points that I did not realise were that your luggage goes with you and is handled by you; so you get to put it into the overhead rack yourself. Be sure it is not too large or heavy; there were some shocked American tourists on my trip, although there is space at the ends of each carriage for really bulky items.
At no point on these travel interchanges was my progress simple or straightforward (and French railway officials have not changed). I am really glad I had no more luggage than I do as the lifts/escalators were not working in a number of stations along the way. Despite two hours of Standard-Premier class luxury on the EuroStar I was hot and tried by the time the day was over. Gare du Nord is huge, busy, and despite Information booths there is really very little to help you. Intensive use of the internet and blogs had got me all I really needed, except the basic plan of the station and an idea of which platform I needed to reach to get my RER train. (This is a local Paris line so does not have the attention paid to it as the Trans-Europe Expresses, EuroStar, etc.) After much stuffing around (living in the moment, totally reactive), I got through 3 sets of ticket-turnstiles (one by tagging onto a tour-group, all pulling the trolley-cases like me), found my RER train and was on my very-crowded way.
I had used Google Maps to walk from the RER station to the college where I was to stay so I was very confident I knew my way. On the ground it was a little bit different as the access to the building was not on the street side (that I had virutal-walked) but from inside the main complex. A little back tracking and following instinct got me to the front doors and ultimately the desk.
I was at the front desk of the Cite Internationale de Universitaire, Maison des Provinces de France, before 5 pm and presented my paperwork to a (thankfully) bilingual desk lady. All the organising paid-off and I was on their books, pre-paid for 33 days. I have small bed-sit with a en-suite and a kitchenette.
Last act of the day was to visit a nearby take-away for a Formula Chicken (6 Euro) that consisted of a hot chicken roll, chips, and a coke. I had not calculated on the Cite' cafeterias/restaurants etc being closed over the holidays. The meal on the EuroStar had been very tasty but the portion size was less than adequate, and I had skipped breakfast, so Food was a priority.
Paris
18/08/2011 morning
Today is my first day in Paris but I have decided to take care of the logistics first. I will locate the college laundry, vending machines, local super market, local restaurants, Banks etc, and stock up on staples like eggs and milk (and maybe pastries). Tomorrow I will sort out the Museum dHistoire Naturalle library.
Tuesday, 16 August 2011
Wrap-up for London research visit
London
Tuesday 16/8/2011
Sent thank-you emails to Sarah Kmosera and James Taylor re assistance with locating the Westall paintings, and a quick thank-you note to Andrea Kiraly at Imperial College Holiday accommodation for the studio/apartment in Orient House. I have previously sent my heart-felt thanks to the staff at the Natural History Museum, General Zoological Library (GenZooLib@nhm.ac.uk).
A summary review of my 8 working day research visit (the NMM is closed on Mondays) in London has been:
- By far the most important element was getting access to the original artwork (both drawings and Watercolour painting) by Ferdinand Bauer of the zoological specimens, particularly the marine animals from the Mathew Flinders voyage 1801-03, held in the British Natural History Museum archives.
- Producing still HD photographers (no flash) of 18 selected Bauer paintings and video footage of the Natural History Museum for context. I have also started negotiation to purchase selected stock images from the library.
- Direct discussion of the artwork produced during the Flinders and Baudin Voyages 1801-04, with Sarah Thomas author of the “Encounter, 1802: Art of the Flinders and Baudin Voyages” at the British Library. (And subsequently successfully contacting James Taylor, ex NMM and current PhD student, regarding the artwork produced by William Westall from the Mathew Flinders voyage 1801-03).
- Less successful was my endeavour to get access to the documents produced by Mathew Flinders, most importantly his published Journal from the 1801-04 voyage, and the paintings by Westall from that voyage. With the exception of one excellent watercolor study by Westall of Port Lincoln in South Australia, thanks to the NMM, of which I obtained a still HD photograph.
- There was a combination of factors working against this endeavour but the positive outcomes were that I made contact with the curators/librarians responsible for the various archives. I also registered and am accredited with the Natural History Museum library/archive and with the Caird Library of the National Maritime Museum. I have made contact with the MoD Art curator Ms Charlotte Henwood and am negotiating a possible viewing of some of Westall's Australian paintings held by the MoD (British Navy) in late October on my return journey.
As noted by James Taylor (Westall scholar), to his knowledge:
- William Westall did not produce paintings of marine specimens, that was Bauer's prerogative;
- The Mitchell library in NSW has copies of the Mathew Flinders documents, possibly his Journal, and a number of Westall's original works.
On the less tangible side, a positive outcome is a growing familiarity and increased ability to use the Sony HD camera and the production of stock video (of variable quality) for editing down into a documentary format.
Photos Views from Thames Ferry on trip to Greenwich (note it was not raining).
Monday, 15 August 2011
Admiralty House saga, chapter 2
London
Monday 15/08/2011
I made a determined effort to find Admiralty house and see the “Australian” Westall paintings today, and to visit the National Gallery and Portrait Gallery if possible. I deliberately travelled by bus (overland) to see more of the city, despite the ease and convenience of the Underground. The connectivity and scheduling of the Bus system is not as integrated as the Underground, some buses and bus-lines appear to be missing when you use the on-line Web timetables; i.e., you get to the Stop but there is no bus nor a posted time-table for that bus. It seems there is a “virtual London bus world” on-line that does not quite map the real world. With more time it would be interesting to explore (despite the over-crowding) but with only two days left I reverted to the Underground to get me home.
I went back to Whitehall and this time asked “silly” questions of security people and doormen. I found the old Admiralty Buildings (signposted as such) and was directed to the “building next door to Admiralty House”, Number 22 not Number 26. In 22 there was a full security set-up with front-desk, guards, and a walk-through metal detector. They directed me next-door to the “black gate” that led into the court-yard of Admiralty House (which I could see through the bars, and, although not obvious from the street, was as in the photographs on the web). I had finally found it but the gate-guards would not let me in. They sent me back “next door” to talk to the security people, who said no! Admiralty House is a working MoD facility and does not allow tourists; no entry without official permission and escort. Close but no brass ring.
When I got back to my flat that evening I found an email from the MoD Art curator, Ms Charlotte Henwood, saying that there were renovations being carried out at Admiralty House and it would not be possible to view the paintings in any case.
Given “no entry” to Admiralty House I moved on to a tour of the National Gallery and the National Portrait Gallery, which took up the rest of the day.
London, Sunday 14/8/2011
On Saturday afternoon, 13/8/2011, I worked on the research diary, updating my blog, and then headed off for a beer on the Imperial Wharf river-front before dinner. I sent off an email to James Taylor, thanking him and trying to set up a time for a telephone call.
Tomorrow, Sunday (14/08/2011), I intend to go to the BBC Proms at the Royal Albert Hall, simply for the experience. I have checked the restaurants and the standing room tickets (5 pound, bought 1 hour before the performance), so early dinner and the classical music concert is a reasonable proposition. The risk is the travel/walking at night in a fairly tense London.
London
Morning of 15/08/2011
My Kindle eBook (i.e., downloaded London guidebook) and I went to the BBC "Proms" last night, 14/8/2011). I risked the London "riots" and travelled by Underground (the Tube). Weather was kind and there was a sufficient crowd going to and from the Royal Albert Hall that I felt safe.
I went early to get some daylight video shots of the Natural History Museum (when it was not raining), treated myself to an "overpriced" dinner in the restaurant at the "Albert", and attended a very good community-involved classical music concert. They had a large backing choir, with a contingent of children singers, so the parents were obviously in the audience.
I was in the cheap seats (partially restricted view, see photo) but as soon as the doors were closed we were off "en masse" to the unused better seats further around the hall. Up in the "Gods" (top gallery) so it did not make that much difference but it made for some fun and a little bit of group bonding. Really enjoyed the experience. Next time I take binoculars.
The hall is large and spectacular (you can do a virtual tour on the web) and the music, by a relatively modern English composer, was interestingly and lively. I was tempted by the even cheaper "Promming" places; these are the unique standing-room "Promenade" places that give the concerts their name. Despite the 5 pound price in the end I was daunted by the prospect of standing for 2.30 hours, not matter how good the music. As it was, it was one of the best value-for-money 7.5 pounds I have spent in the UK (note, the real cost of the seat I ended up in was probably a bit higher than that).
Photo. Royal Albert Hall, Cheap seats = "partially restricted view" in the upper reaches of the hall.
Saturday, 13 August 2011
William Westall paintings - NMM and MOD, London
Saturday 13/08/2011
Wednesday was not productive. I went looking for Admiralty House, but did not find it despite the Google Map directions. The entrance is hidden and/or the photos do not represent the same building (or I was simply lost). More research before I come back. In the afternoon I went shopping for some basics.
Photo. Nelsons Column Trafalgar Square, shot while looking for Admiralty House.
Thursday was my appointment with Sarah Thomas at the British Library. The Library is close to Kings Cross St Pancras International train Station so I took the opportunity to work out the EuroStar Terminal prior to travel to Paris on the 17th. I got to the First Floor of the Library, outside the Rare books section, about 15 min early and Sarah showed up right on time. I was lucky to start my "face searching" just as she looked my way and we made contact.
We had a lunch in the Library cafeteria and discussed my project, mainly some questions I had re the Westall works and the Lesueur works in France. Sarah is four weeks from submitting her PhD so was a little preoccupied (and I promised to only send detailed questions after the thesis was "in")! As for the Westall paintings held in London, Sarah recommended contacting James Taylor, an ex-NMM employee and current PhD student, researching William Westall. Sarah followed up by sending me his email address.
Getting to Greenwich yesterday (Friday) involved "a leisurely Ferry ride" that turned into a fire/police emergency at the Greenwich pier, which meant Thames Clippers threw us off at Canary Wharf. I get lost going to the toilet so it was about 30min later that I found the Docklands Light Rail station to continue the journey. I was a full hour late by the time I reached the NMM "store".
Thankfully Sarah Kmosera, manager of the art storage, waited for me and I got to at least see some the Westall drawing and watercolours.
Only one small painting from the Australian voyage was there; the Port Lincoln study. It was good to get a feel for his technique, which like Bauer involved meticulous attention to fine detail. This is the "scientific illustration" discipline as a major element to their "artworks". They were the equivalent of the "photographers" for the voyage. Interesting that it took so long to get their work published. Different age; i.e., the age of the written-word and printing-press, before the rise of the photographic "image" and computer technology?
I have seen the photographs of the Bowen Harbour painting but, given it is not at Admiralty House, I will not be able to see it this time around. Sarah Kmosena from the NMM Store located the MOD art curator's email address for me and I have emailed requesting for a quick look at what artwork is available.
James Taylor (aka William Westall scholar), informs me that:
"There are ten William Westall Australian oil paintings that belong to the Ministry of Defence Art Collection (MoD). Five are hanging in Admiralty House, one is in the MoD London store, two are in Chiefs of Services Residences, one is in a military base in Germany and the one you want to see (view of Bowen Harbour, Queensland) is in the Defence Academy at Shrivenham in Wiltshire."
Hopefully I will be able to view the five paintings in Admiralty House early next week prior to leaving for France. I will be travelling back through London in late October so there is the opportunity to get down to Wiltshire then. I will have to see what is possible following the email response from the MOD.
Tuesday, 9 August 2011
National Maritime Museum and Caird Library
Tuesday 9/08/2011
The visit to Greenwich Maritime (and NMM) was interesting but not productive from the view of the MA research project. A matter of poor timing, with the document archives still not housed in the new building (until the temperature/humidity stabilize). The Caird Library staff were very helpful but really could not do much because the process is out of their hands. Most important of the documents I wanted to see was Mathew Flinders' published journal of the 1801-04 Australian voyage, which includes plates taken from Westall's paintings. It will be months before I can get access to this and the cost of scanning as an alternative is prohibitive.
I was put onto (by telephone from the library) Sarah Kmosena, the Museum storage manager. Here we arranged for me to come back Friday to view what images that she could access for me. I had to complete and sign the appropriate forms, which I have subsequently done via email.
The good points are that I am now signed-in for my reader status and have a library security card. Secondly I have at least established contact with the archive staff, both in the document management and picture/image store.
The journey itself, from Imperial Wharf to Greenwich required a bus and two trains both ways, with walking between Underground and Docklands Light Rail stations. I shall investigate using the ferries on next Friday.
The visit to Greenwich Maritime (and NMM) was interesting but not productive from the view of the MA research project. A matter of poor timing, with the document archives still not housed in the new building (until the temperature/humidity stabilize). The Caird Library staff were very helpful but really could not do much because the process is out of their hands. Most important of the documents I wanted to see was Mathew Flinders' published journal of the 1801-04 Australian voyage, which includes plates taken from Westall's paintings. It will be months before I can get access to this and the cost of scanning as an alternative is prohibitive.
I was put onto (by telephone from the library) Sarah Kmosena, the Museum storage manager. Here we arranged for me to come back Friday to view what images that she could access for me. I had to complete and sign the appropriate forms, which I have subsequently done via email.
The good points are that I am now signed-in for my reader status and have a library security card. Secondly I have at least established contact with the archive staff, both in the document management and picture/image store.
The journey itself, from Imperial Wharf to Greenwich required a bus and two trains both ways, with walking between Underground and Docklands Light Rail stations. I shall investigate using the ferries on next Friday.
Monday, 8 August 2011
Sunday and Monday in London
7+8/08/2011
I researched the National Maritime Museum and its library/archive using the internet on Sunday and Monday. This allowed me to sign-up as a reader for the NMM library, although they appear to be moving collections to new building(s) so it may take two weeks notice to view the Westall paintings. That would mean setting-up what I need now and scheduling a visit on the way back from Paris/le Havre/Vienna, in the week before I fly home. Still "doable", but balances up the ease with which I completed the viewing of the Bauer work .
I visit the NMM library today (Tuesday) to present my "documentation" for Reader, and locate the picture gallery/archive to see what can be arranged. I pre-loaded my Oyster card and used Google Maps to sort out a route. It will take me through the Earls Court Underground Station, which I have to use on the way to the Pancras International Station (EuroStar) on the 17th. There is a "no free step" notice between the District and Piccadilly lines that I need to investigate if I am to be carrying luggage.
I was contacted by Madame Baglione from the Le Havre Natural History Museum, and confirmed my visit to the Lesueur collection on the 29th-31st of August. I have already organised both the train tickets from/to Paris and accommodation in Le Havre for this trip. I also made email contact with Sarah Thomas, author of The Encounter 1802: Art of the Flinders and Baudin Voyages (a seminal "Guidebook" from my research), and confirmed our appointment for next Thursday lunch.
Unfortunately of greater "prominence" has been the turmoil on the global share-markets and of course the declining A$ exchange rate. I am glad most of my costs will have been pre-paid but as noted in earlier posts I am still "exposed". No doubt this will be an ongoing concern.
I researched the National Maritime Museum and its library/archive using the internet on Sunday and Monday. This allowed me to sign-up as a reader for the NMM library, although they appear to be moving collections to new building(s) so it may take two weeks notice to view the Westall paintings. That would mean setting-up what I need now and scheduling a visit on the way back from Paris/le Havre/Vienna, in the week before I fly home. Still "doable", but balances up the ease with which I completed the viewing of the Bauer work .
I visit the NMM library today (Tuesday) to present my "documentation" for Reader, and locate the picture gallery/archive to see what can be arranged. I pre-loaded my Oyster card and used Google Maps to sort out a route. It will take me through the Earls Court Underground Station, which I have to use on the way to the Pancras International Station (EuroStar) on the 17th. There is a "no free step" notice between the District and Piccadilly lines that I need to investigate if I am to be carrying luggage.
I was contacted by Madame Baglione from the Le Havre Natural History Museum, and confirmed my visit to the Lesueur collection on the 29th-31st of August. I have already organised both the train tickets from/to Paris and accommodation in Le Havre for this trip. I also made email contact with Sarah Thomas, author of The Encounter 1802: Art of the Flinders and Baudin Voyages (a seminal "Guidebook" from my research), and confirmed our appointment for next Thursday lunch.
Unfortunately of greater "prominence" has been the turmoil on the global share-markets and of course the declining A$ exchange rate. I am glad most of my costs will have been pre-paid but as noted in earlier posts I am still "exposed". No doubt this will be an ongoing concern.
Saturday, 6 August 2011
Saturday in London
Saturday 6/8/20011
A lazy day, taking care of my travel arrangements/logistics and sight-seeing on the Thames Towpath along the waterfront of Imperial Wharf development. I also slipped into the Chelsea Harbour development to look at the boats anchored up in their loched marina. I saw a number of canal boats, including one similar to the Midi Canal boat we have hired for late September. They have a neat breakfast on the weekend at one of the Imperial Wharf pub/bars, which I will try Sunday. I also found the river Ferry terminal but they do not run on the weekend.
The logistics was primarily checking that the ANZ travel card worked and to rebuild my cash reserve. Also to recharge my Oyster card at the Tube Station. I have been using my 28Deg Master Card as a normal debit/credit card and last time I was in Europe the associated fees and charges made that an expensive luxury. Better to draw out a larger sum as cash less often, then spend down that, accruing fewer sets of fees/charge. I made a special trip to Fulham Broadway to use a Bank ATM, rather than the local TESCO Supermarket money-machine, but I got charged 2 pounds for the privilege. I had a second look at the TESCO machine and it is run by the Royal Bank of Scotland and states its makes no charges!! Watch out for untested assumptions.
Back at Orient House I researched the Maritime Museum and worked out the easiest method of public transport to get there. It looks like next Tuesday they will be open. I sent an email to their paintings archive requesting access to the Mathew Flinders voyage artwork, William Westall's paintings in particular. I also emailed Sarah Thomas, author of The Encounter 1802: Art of the Flinders and Baudin Voyages, to confirm our appointment on next Thursday. She replied promptly and gave me directions to the British Library where we are to meet.
Checked the foreign exchange website and the A$ is sliding in value against the British pound:
I left Australia on the 2nd August and the $A has gone down ever since. My travel card was actually fixed by ANZ at a then poor rate (was not happy) but given the slide it was a better rate than now; i.e, I have not lost much. Hopefully things stabilize a bit. I only have 400 Euros "fixed" in this way so will be exposed, although most of my major accommodation bills have been pre-paid.
Friday, 5 August 2011
Research of Ferdinand Bauer watercolours at the London, Natural History Museum
Sat 6/08/2011
I lost the 4th due to rain and lingering travel problems, but the 5th (Friday) was extremely productive. Using my Oyster card plus the Google Maps travel advice I braved the London Bus system to go to the Natural History Museum. I had emailed ahead but to no avail, so decided a "frontal attack" or rather person to person negotiation was at least worth a try. The Lonely Planet describes the crowds at the Museum as "crazy" at any time, so I went early in the morning just after opening. The Lonely Planet was right, even at that time I joined an entry line that snaked back a few hundred metres.
Once inside I was very lucky in that an information/customer-service woman was free and she guided me to the Museum's library/archive and introduced me to the staff. I could not have got through the security door otherwise and would have wasted the trip to London. I had already prepared all the documentation and identification that I anticipated I could be asked for (with multiple authorized photo-copies) so I was able to be registered as a "Reader" and could therefore get access to the archives. The Library staff were truly helpful and cooperative throughout this process. I had to all intensive purposes "dropped out of the Blue" so they were most generous.
The original Ferdinand Bauer zoological paintings/drawings were archived in large green box/folders and could only be handled with rubber gloves. I was allowed to photograph selected artwork (no flash) but was required to sign a non-commercial exploitation agreement. There is another, larger archive of Bauers' botanical drawings/paintings that I did not view.
All up I photographed 14-15 plates of the marine specimens he recorded (these were the most brightly coloured "tropical" specimens (see photo). I will research the correct scientific names later. The aim was to see the originals to determine the artistic methods used and as an aesthetic "seed" for my later paintings in response to the body of work produced during the "voyages of discovery" to Australia in 1801.
Of particular interest to me was his record of Portunus pelagicus (Sand crab) as this crab was the focus for my marine biology PhD dissertation. The photo-realistic accuracy of Bauer's painting is breath-taking; even down to the setae on the swimming legs.
I lost the 4th due to rain and lingering travel problems, but the 5th (Friday) was extremely productive. Using my Oyster card plus the Google Maps travel advice I braved the London Bus system to go to the Natural History Museum. I had emailed ahead but to no avail, so decided a "frontal attack" or rather person to person negotiation was at least worth a try. The Lonely Planet describes the crowds at the Museum as "crazy" at any time, so I went early in the morning just after opening. The Lonely Planet was right, even at that time I joined an entry line that snaked back a few hundred metres.
Once inside I was very lucky in that an information/customer-service woman was free and she guided me to the Museum's library/archive and introduced me to the staff. I could not have got through the security door otherwise and would have wasted the trip to London. I had already prepared all the documentation and identification that I anticipated I could be asked for (with multiple authorized photo-copies) so I was able to be registered as a "Reader" and could therefore get access to the archives. The Library staff were truly helpful and cooperative throughout this process. I had to all intensive purposes "dropped out of the Blue" so they were most generous.
The original Ferdinand Bauer zoological paintings/drawings were archived in large green box/folders and could only be handled with rubber gloves. I was allowed to photograph selected artwork (no flash) but was required to sign a non-commercial exploitation agreement. There is another, larger archive of Bauers' botanical drawings/paintings that I did not view.
All up I photographed 14-15 plates of the marine specimens he recorded (these were the most brightly coloured "tropical" specimens (see photo). I will research the correct scientific names later. The aim was to see the originals to determine the artistic methods used and as an aesthetic "seed" for my later paintings in response to the body of work produced during the "voyages of discovery" to Australia in 1801.
Wednesday, 3 August 2011
Flight(s) cairns to London (best part of 2 days!)
No real problems once I had entered the "International Travel machine". Both me and my luggage ultimately arrived at Heathrow Airport safely. I had stop-overs in Sydney, Melbourne and Changi Airports and I would not necessarily recommend this strategy. It does break-up a long flight, so you can get out and walk around, but effectively makes the process even longer! I found I really needed the Qantas Club Lounge facilities for sanity and computer time.
Despite the tight-fitting socks, walking during stop-overs, and in-flight exercises, my feet/ankles swelled noticeably. The joys of being trapped in an economy class seat for 24 hours. A necessary evil but pressure related ear problems (a legacy of SCUBA diving when young and brave) and the possibility of DVT need to be managed. As usual I met a couple of interesting passengers, and some helpful airline/airport staff. The Qantas Club again was a haven.
I got to Heathrow AP and faced the usual long lines for everything. After getting through all of the bureaucratic processing I had the bitter-sweet experience of the luggage conveyor-belt lottery; will it arrive! I won and there was my roller-case in good condition! Then as an added challenge I headed off to find the Underground and to purchase an "Oyster card" for London Transport. My web-searching and advice from friends paid-off with a relatively easy ticket/card order,so much so that the next couple in the "Information" line at the station simply repeated my purchase! They knew the "Tube" to London from Heathrow was a good idea but had not found out about the "Oyster card". Karma!
Only problem for me was working in a mild jet-lagged fog, with a slight tummy-bug picked up during the journey. I was very pleased to make it through the three train/line changes to get from Heathrow to Fulham-Broadway Underground Stations, then walk the final 10 minutes to Orient House (Imperial College) where I had booked my one-bedroom Flat for two weeks. The hot shower (and clean/working toilet) really felt good; simple basic pleasures!
I did a little exploring around my accommodation, used the Oyster card on a local Bus and "recharged" it with 5 pounds at the Underground station. Simple process that worked well. After forcing myself to stay awake most of the daylight hours, with only a couple of disturbing mini-sleeps, I finally crashed at about 7.30pm London Time. Unfortunately I was awake again at midnight (equivalent of 5am in Cairns) so I do not think I fooled my internal clocks at all.
Tomorrow is the start of the serious work of locating and viewing the original artwork from the Mathew Flinders voyage!
Despite the tight-fitting socks, walking during stop-overs, and in-flight exercises, my feet/ankles swelled noticeably. The joys of being trapped in an economy class seat for 24 hours. A necessary evil but pressure related ear problems (a legacy of SCUBA diving when young and brave) and the possibility of DVT need to be managed. As usual I met a couple of interesting passengers, and some helpful airline/airport staff. The Qantas Club again was a haven.
I got to Heathrow AP and faced the usual long lines for everything. After getting through all of the bureaucratic processing I had the bitter-sweet experience of the luggage conveyor-belt lottery; will it arrive! I won and there was my roller-case in good condition! Then as an added challenge I headed off to find the Underground and to purchase an "Oyster card" for London Transport. My web-searching and advice from friends paid-off with a relatively easy ticket/card order,so much so that the next couple in the "Information" line at the station simply repeated my purchase! They knew the "Tube" to London from Heathrow was a good idea but had not found out about the "Oyster card". Karma!
Only problem for me was working in a mild jet-lagged fog, with a slight tummy-bug picked up during the journey. I was very pleased to make it through the three train/line changes to get from Heathrow to Fulham-Broadway Underground Stations, then walk the final 10 minutes to Orient House (Imperial College) where I had booked my one-bedroom Flat for two weeks. The hot shower (and clean/working toilet) really felt good; simple basic pleasures!
I did a little exploring around my accommodation, used the Oyster card on a local Bus and "recharged" it with 5 pounds at the Underground station. Simple process that worked well. After forcing myself to stay awake most of the daylight hours, with only a couple of disturbing mini-sleeps, I finally crashed at about 7.30pm London Time. Unfortunately I was awake again at midnight (equivalent of 5am in Cairns) so I do not think I fooled my internal clocks at all.
Tomorrow is the start of the serious work of locating and viewing the original artwork from the Mathew Flinders voyage!
Monday, 1 August 2011
The journey begins!
I am sitting in the lounge at Melbourne International terminal waiting for my flight for the final "major" leg to get me to London. Short stop-over in Changi Airport. On reflection the choice of luggage has been good, one small/medium roller suitcase and a computer backpack. Completely manageable and well within weight limits. The extra camera case around my neck is a hassle (mainly because last time only had a small point-and-shoot that fitted into the backpack). It remains to be seen if the better camera equals better images.
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